EATS

Just a quick update to let you know that the Dallas Farmers Market staff was trying out signs that local farmers could post stating, "I grew these onions," or "I raised these chickens." Plus, there was a sandwich sign clearly marking the direction to the farmers. Yea!

Also spotted: the first few local peaches (at the Lemleys, hard, must be ripened), green plums, squash (including the quirky-looking eight-ball), and blackberries. Also, a lot coming in from South Texas, like peas.

I'm still working spring onions, which are so abundant right now. Yesterday, I got some herbed-whole-wheat pasta from Pastabilities, then sauced it with one of Gnismer's microwaved onions (method detailed here), mooshed up and cooked a bit longer with some olive oil to further caramelize, salt and Parmesan. The onion turned sweet and gooey, contasting nicely with the saltiness, and al dente bite of the pasta. I suppose you could throw in some balsalmic vinegar, but you don't need it. Sided the whole afair with a sweet cantaloupe from one of the dealers under Shed No. 1. Hey, his lemons were four for a dollar. Can't beat that.

Slow Foodies and Food Roots combined forces for a "Cheese, Burgers & Viognier" tour recently, visiting three local producers southwest of here. You might not want to make a day of it like they did, but all three are day-trip-friendly. Here's a little taste of the tour, courtesy of Mary Kimbrough, who's got her feet in both camps (Slow Food and Food Roots):

First stop: The Burgundy Boucherie in Grandview, the area's only grass-fed butcher shop, where Jon and Wendy Taggert dry-age, cut, and sell their pasture-raised meats. They also serve burgers made with their beef. Yum.

If the Dallas Farmers Market is on your agenda Saturday or Sunday, check out the slightly off-market shop of Pastabilities and Koster Cattle Co. These guys share a space just north of Shed No. 1 (where the farmers are) and next to El Mercado restaurant.

I got a chance to try Mike Koster's ground beef, black Angus that he raises on pasture locally. He's not an organic guy, but he's into his cattle and doing right by them (no feedlots). I made burgers with the beef, whose fat content was high enough to produce outrageously juicy and flavorful patties. Sometimes, you just gotta have it.

But here's the kicker: I've got an elderly cat who's never much interested in food. When I add a little of the leftover drippings to his bowl, he goes crazy on them. So I scraped the skillet clean, and we both enjoyed this local product. Koster also has steaks and such, all USDA choice - another reason to check out the market.

Saturday is Customer Appreciation Day at the Coppell Farmers Market, held in conjunction with the Old Town Coppell Festival, a small-town shindig, fun for a family outing.

The "appreciation" is in the form of a free raffle for prizes provided by the vendors, and burgers and hot dogs fresh off the grill. Kids will enjoy the free pony rides with photographs and a miniature stagecoach ride, plus some Clydesdales, antique tractors and a bluegrass band. The festival also brings out craftpersons, artists and gift vendors.

But you really come to buy the foodstuffs, and Marilyn Horton, the market chair this year, writes that Saturday there will be tomatoes, green beans, zucchini and yellow squash, a few cucumbers, green beans, garlic, new potatoes, sweet potatoes, turnips, mushrooms, poke sallet, broccoli, lettuces, chard, kale, spinach, collards and turnip greens. "We usually get a few surprises, too," she writes.

Also at the market: cheese, pastured meats, eggs from real free-range hens, seafood from the Gulf, Alaskan wild-caught salmon, honey, jams, fresh pasta, breads, pecans, teas and coffees, homemade soaps and those earthworm casings. And lots of plants: bedding, herbs, veggies, hanging baskets, the works.

Latte Da Dairy in Flower Mound invites everyone out to see their "Dairy Divas" (aka goats) tomorrow from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. It's also a chance to meet cheesemaker Anne Jones and see her operation. Plus, it's the middle of kidding season, notes Jennifer Uygur in her Slow Food Dallas e-blast, which means a lot of new babies are being born weekly. And baby goats are so cute. The dairy farm is at 1304 Bridle Bit Road in Flower Mound. Here's a link to a map. Phone is 817-490-5004.

This is one of the wierdest products I've ever seen at Whole Foods Market. I found it at the Lomo Alto store next to the packaged to-go foods case. The Okra Snack was one of several similarly dried and seasoned veggies, which also included Japanese pumpkin squash and carrots. I suspect they're fried and dehydrated a la ramen noodles because they're crackling crisp and the second ingredient after okra is non-hydrogenated palm oil.

I find myself caught in approach-avoidance with them. On the one hand, if you think of crisp okra that has the feel of potato chips, it's a kind of icky proposition. But then when you eat them - yes, I did this, just for you - they're actually kind of good. If I had a kid who didn't like veggies but would eat these, I'd buy 'em. Oh, and about that slime. It never really, really dehydrates completely away.

Writer Tina Danze gives a big thumbs-up to Dunkluv Biscotti, made by Sara and Matthew McLain of Grapevine. Read more about Dunkluv here, and order online.

Robert Hutchins of Rehoboth Ranch reminds me that the same organic supplier who's sending the fabulous locally grown organic lettuces I wrote about here also is sending his fresh fruits and vegetables to the McKinney Farmers Market on Saturdays now, too. So this Saturday, Oak Ridge Valley Farms Organics in Grand Saline will have lettuces, spring onions, radishes and whatever else is ripe at the Dallas Farmers Market, Coppell Farmers Market, McKinney Farmers Market and Eden's Organic Garden Center.

One of the newest vendors in Shed No. 1 at the Dallas Farmers Market is Fred's Alaska Seafood. Fred Sturman is an Oklahoma ex-pat who loves fishing in Alaska so much he moved there and, with his family, runs a small fishing business. The salmon they catch is frozen, then air freighted to DFW, where it finds its way to Fred's stall, manned by local musician Hank Fore.

Over the weekend, I picked up part of a fillet to share with the Significant Other. One thing led to another, and Son of S.O. joined us for dinner. So S.O. rushed to Whole Foods to add more salmon, a fresh piece from the fishmonger there. This gave us a chance to taste Fred's defrosted vs. WFM's never-frozen side by side. Drum roll, please.

Tonight, I cooked up some Texas spinach from John Lucido in Shed No. 1 at the Dallas Farmers Market. It was big, meaty, robust spinach, which I sauteed in a little Texas olive oil. Then I sprinkled on a little Spiceburst Gourmet Spices "cracked Malabar saltburst" from Austin, which contain sea sal, Malabar pepper and sumac (which has a lemony quality). What a terrific combination. Tomorrow, I'll use the spinach leftovers in an omelet for breakfast. I know all this sounds really gourmet, but I'm the kind of person who takes home toast points from Charlie Palmer at The Joule. I mean, budget dining is relative.

Now I know how Buttercrunch and red romaine lettuce taste. You may think you know what red romaine is - that wimpy romaine in stores with slightly purplish end leaves. Oh, no.

Organic red romaine, grown in Grand Saline, is nearly the color of purple basil. And the head isn't tight the way we think of for romaine. Organic Buttercrunch has sturdy outer leaves that give way to buttery-soft inner leaves like Boston or butter lettuce. I bought them both last Saturday morning at the Dallas Farmers Market in Shed No. 1 from the Farmer Rancher Network Co-op.

These and other early season crops should be available at the Dallas Farmers Market, Coppell Farmers Market and Eden's Organic Garden Center in Balch Springs from the same supplier next Saturday morning.

I tossed the two lettuces together with my signature vinaigrette.

The latest issue of Saveur includes an homage to the "Southern pea" by writer John Grossman. The magazine notes they're also called field peas or cowpeas. The category includes black-eyed peas, purple-hulls and creamers, and they're one of the best things about summer in East Texas.
In researching the article, Mr. Grossman visited the East Texas burg of Edom with Randy Evans, chef at Brennan's Houston. They shopped at Edom Marketplace, a combination produce stand and restaurant.
Edom's about an hour and a half east of Dallas, so it's a nice day trip. It's also in the blueberry belt, with several pick-your-owns operating nearby. It's still a bit early for blueberries; check the Texas Department of Agriculture Pick Texas site to find farms and check opening dates.
Edom has a handful of artist shops, including local favorites Potters Brown. And of course there's The Shed for lunch.
A few minutes past Edom is Blue Moon Gardens, a lovely, rambling garden center loaded with temptation and a friendly staff.
There you have it -- a day in the country. Don't forget the cooler.

Scandinavian foodies alert: Abba herrings, Kalles caviar, Mills mayonnaise, Danbu cheese, Danish Kringle, Solo and Gjetost have arrived at the Wooden Spoon in Plano. I know it's bad of me to laugh but it does crack me up when my WS email also comes with such admonishments and reminders as "Don't forget to put up your flags, napkins and linens for your parties" and "Newly arrived are several new books on the Vikings. A new Viking chess set and other great Viking items."

This comes from Robert Hutchins, whose Rehoboth Ranch produces pastured meats, chicken and eggs in the Greenville area. He says that Gene Holmes, whose Grand Saline farm supplies organic produce to the Coppell and Dallas farmers markets on Saturdays, is also going to bring his organic vegetables to the McKinney Farmers Market this Saturday to see how it goes.

If McKinney is your market and you're into locally grown organics, stop by and check it out. The market opens at 8 a.m. It's at Chestnut Square, about three blocks south of the main square, at McDonald and Anthony.

Did you know you can get olive oil that's estate-grown right here in the Lone Star State?

Try a bottle of Texas Olive Ranch, which hails from Carrizo Springs and is available exclusively in 500-ml bottles at Central Market stores. (Flavors From Afar, in Snider Plaza, also sells Texas Olive Ranch's oil, but in bulk quantities.)

These "Early Harvest Grove Master's Reserve" bottles of extra-virgin olive oil are cold-pressed and unfiltered. Price: $13.99.

The annual festival kicks off tonight with Gourmet Cinema -- the gourmet part being a dinner by chef Richard Chamberlain, and the cinema being Sideways. But let's talk about that dinner for a minute. The chef promises goose-fat fries with Parmigiano-Reggiano. Other food too, but it's those fries that tempt.

On Friday, Texas Salute will serve up local and regional foods and wines. Austin-based Treaty Oak Platinum Rum will pour samples of their rum as well as mojitos. You can also sample the latest from Fall Creek Vineyards, McPherson Cellars, Inwood Estates Vineyards and Saint Arnold Brewery, among others. Make a meal out of nibbles from Aurelia's Chorizo, shrimp cocktail from Big Shucks, brisket tacos from Blue Goose, tamales from Texas Tamale, guacamole from Two Chihuahuas, plus hot sauces, desserts and more. Wiseman House from Hico, Texas, will serve truffles, toffee and its decadent sipping chocolate. And yes, I'm "hosting" this one, which merely means I will get up and say HI at some point during the evening.

Saturday is given over to Entertaining With Style, a series of seminars spread out along McKinney just south of Knox. Milestone Culinary Arts Center is ground zero; stop in at 12:30 to taste along with the Taste wine panel. We'll be pairing wines with a killer mac-and-cheese. Also look for a demo by chef John Tesar of the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek, along with other chefs from around town.

Sunday is reserved for Taste of the World, with samples from Dallas restaurants paired with award-winning wines. Check the menu here.

Full disclosure: The Dallas Morning News is, once again, a sponsor of the festival.

I feel so dumb. Gnismer Farms in Dalworthington Gardens has been a pick-your-own for 11 years - and I've only just discovered it.

Last night I went to check it out. It's this tidy little farm in amongst a neighborhood of bungalows. I couldn't have picked better weather, with just a hint of coolness in the air.

They give you a nifty little box with a handle that holds about 5 pounds and turn you loose in the strawberry patch, rows and rows of strawberries at all stages of ripeness. The trick is to pick the ripest ones you can, the ones that are almost turning maroon, that burst with strawberry intensity in your mouth.

We also got some field-fresh spring onions, and patriach Lynn Gnismer (say "NEYES-mur") told how to turn them into a side dish with the consistency of buttah.

Next time you eat at Jason's Deli, check out their crackers. Doctor Kracker, the Dallas-based line of whole-grain artisan crackers, is making a private-label cracker for Jason's with spelt flour, pumpkin seeds and poppy seeds. Doctor Kracker also makes Snack Flats with their own label for food service, so you never know where the good Doctor will turn up.

So, if you're like me, you've had your Seder, and you may have even had your second Seder but now it's the third day and you've got to pack Passover lunches for the kids to go to school. What creative things have you come up with? And how will you keep them happy all week long? Today I sent them off with hard-boiled eggs, matzoh, grapes and Passover cake. But I would love suggestions for tomorrow and tomorrow and tomorrow...

Anyone who read my diatribe - I mean, op-ed piece - several years ago on the Dallas Farmers Market know I am not exactly a neutral observer. A councilperson who shall remain nameless had the audacity then to suggest that the downtown market was failing because "people's shopping habits were changing." I let him have it, pointing out all the ways the city had failed as steward to what was once a true and thriving farmers market, and how that failure had fueled the growth of the many smaller markets that now ring Dallas.

Recently I had my first conversation with Janel Leatherman, the (relatively) new market adminstrator. This was an interview for a future story, but I want to tell all foodies and farmers market fans far and wide why I think this woman might be the right person in the right place at the right time to finally turn around our downtown farmers market and make it as vibrant as others across the country.

We're going to our cousins' home for the first Passover Seder tomorrow and we've been asked to bring cake and grape juice (for our kids who don't drink wine). Grape juice is no problem, but the cake, well, I ran over to our local Tom Thumb and Passover mixes were nowhere to be found.

So I called Central Market, which caters a terrific Passover meal (had it last year, LOVED it) to see if I could buy the dessert portion, a flourless chocolate cake, separately from the full meal. Not only was that not possible, but they're not taking any more orders for the Saturday meal, although you can still get it for Sunday.

However, they did advise that I could call the Central Market bakery directly to order the cake, which I did for $19.99. And now I will have something good to bring tomorrow night.

The cake, for sweet-toothed ones running out of cake mixes, will be available all week long. But with Central Market only dishing out the Passover meal Sunday, I think I'll probably grab that, so we have some good grub for the week. Passover does continue for eight days...

Tony Johns, the market farm and resource coordinator, emailed me with sad news. Carolyn Lemley, the matriarch of the farmers market family famous for their tomatoes, died yesterday.

So the Lemleys' stalls in Shed 2 will be closed Saturday as husband J.T. and the family take some private time. The Lemleys have been at the market for close to 30 years.

In Shed No. 1 on Saturdays, look for P.O.P. Acres, which is bringing in organic Buttercrunch lettuce and red and green romaine, spring onions, spinach, greens (collard, mustard, kale, turnip) and radishes as well as products from JuHa Ranch, including pastured chicken, sausage, free-range pastured eggs, Italian pork sausage links and Por-Go, a mild pork-goat sausage blend.

Later in the season, P.O.P. will start bringing in its pastured beef as well as other seasonal organic produce. These two Corsicana-area farms/ranches are working in partnership to run the stall. They'll be there starting at 7 a.m. Saturday and usually leave by 2 p.m. Don't forget that Texas Meats, with its pastured chicken, eggs, beef, lamb, pork and more is in Shed No. 2 Fridays and Saturdays.

Little Eden's Organic Garden Center in Balch Springs gets started in earnest with its market days, 10 a.m. 9 a.m. to noon Saturday.

This tiny, one tent market includes JuHa Ranch chicken and combination pork-goat sausage, which is so tasty. (The goat gives it a rich, almost sweet dimension.)