A reader just wrote me with the best subject line in an email I've seen all year: "Duck legs."

She wants to make confit, and would like to know where to buy them. Seems she can find them during the holidays, but not after. Can anyone help her? I would love to know, too, because I love to roast 'em. She lives in Plano, but answers from anywhere in the area would be appreciated.

Staff file photo of duck legs confit at Toulouse

I cheered when Bolsa Mercado opened, thinking its excellent selection of pick-up-tonight wines was a first for North Oak Cliff. What a surprise to learn that down the street next to Urban Acres co-op, Chelsmati's Wine Market has been quietly providing the same thing since July.

This is an amazing little place, with a focus on value wines priced under $20 and most in the $10 t $15 range. Owner Tina Acosta (at left) says she tastes every wine and "hand sells" to shoppers' tastes.

She's assembled an innovative and quirky collection, ranging from one of the largest Israeli wine sections in the city at 13 to Brotherhood Winery Riesling, from America's oldest winery in upstate New York. There's also a nice Argentinean section, including a wine made from the Italian bonarda grape from Uma that she gave me to taste. What a nice surprise: Its peppery, dark berries and unapologetic tannins show a leaner, more Old World sensibility that goes well with food.

Chile, Italy, Spain are represented in her racks. California, not so much. Plus, she has a shelf of products such as Turkish coffee and Indian masala tea that a friend picks up in her travels around the world. "Once it's gone, it's gone," says Acosta. Oh, and the shop's name is a composite of her daughters' names.

1307 1/2 W. Davis; 214-923-9814; www.chelsmati.com (work in progress). Hours are 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 4 to 9 p.m. Friday and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday.

Last week, I wrote about barramundi fish as an alternative to salmon in my Arts & Life story, "12 for '12." It's a great alternative to salmon, as it contains as much omega-3 fatty acids but costs less. It's practically the national fish of Australia.

When I wrote the story, it was only available frozen (which isn't bad in these days of flash freezing). Now, Jon Alexis at TJ's Fresh Seafood Market writes to tell me that he will have a shipment in fresh on Thursday. I can't wait to give it a try fresh.

For some reason, the story's still behind the pay-wall. (Everyone's supposed to be able to access freelancers' copy like mine now.) So I've lifted that part of the story, plus the recipe for Barramundi With Mango Salsa on the jump.

Apparently, North Texas is a test market for a new Kellogg's cereal called Krave. I spotted it in my neighborhood Albertson's over the weekend. The Macguffin for Crave is that it's regular cereal with chocolate inside. "Satisfy your inner chocovore with Kellogg's Krave™ Chocolate cereal. Inside each crunchy bite hides a smooth chocolate center. "

The nutritional info is not out of bounds for sweetened cereals: For each serving, 11 g of sugar, 3.5 g of fat and a pretty good 3 g of fiber. But here's the rub: For each nugget of Krave to average as OK, and with the inside being a piece of chocolate, that means the outside shell needs to be what? Imagine a teeter-totter. One side -- the tasty side -- goes up. What has to happen to the other side? Head to the jump for my taste test of Krave. (Hint: I don't crave it.)

When I buy seafood, I like to know that is was sustainably fished and did not contribute to overfishing and the depletion of our fishing stocks.

It's so cool, then, that United Supermarkets of Lubbock, mothership to Market Street grocery stores, has earned the Marine Stewardship Council' s Chain of Custody certification.

The blue MSC ecolabel goes only on fresh seafood that is certified as sustainably fished and can be traced back to the MSC-certified wild-capture fishery of origin. Want to learn more about the MSC-certified fish to eat? Check them out here.

Next to its 470 acres of organic and sustainably produced grapes (pinot gris, pinot noir and chardonnay), Oregon's King Estate southeast of Eugene sets aside 30 acres for fruits, vegetables and flowers.

The Sig-O was gifted with a jar of the King Estate (organic) Raspberry-Pinot Noir Jam, and smearing this gorgeous stuff on toast was a fabulous start to the new year. I can also see lots of potential for Valentine's Day. (Maybe the world's best Linzer torte? Or just spread on chocolate-graham-crackers?)

Just as alcohol (wine or vodka) intensifies the flavor of tomato-based pasta sauces, the pinot noir intensifies the sun-kissed flavor of red raspberries picked at their peak. The flavor is beautifully concentrated and jammy.

Quote the website, where it's $8 online: "These jams represent a true collaboration between our culinary, winemaking, and gardening teams; fruit is grown under the watchful eye of Garden Manager Jessie Russell...."

Thanks to HoneyG's comment on my earlier post about Eat the World black-eyed-pea tamales, I can pass along another source.

La Popular Tamale House, the wonderful takeout spot in East Dallas, is also making black-eyed-pea tamales for New Year's. It's best to order ahead, but there will be supplies for walk-ins while they last.

They're $12 a dozen, and La Popular will be open from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. on New Year's Day.

Eat the World will again be selling black-eyed-pea tamales for New Year's Day. They're $13 a dozen, with discounts for three dozen or more.

The takeout store also has Texas caviar (made from black-eyed peas, in case there's a newbie in the crowd who doesn't know this) and quarts of ready-to-heat black-eyed peas.

Everything will be available to pick up starting Friday, and the store will be open from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. on New Year's Day. Order by email here, or call it in at 214-340-3663.

File 2003/Staff photo

You know this is a big deal when it snags a top-of-the-fold, 1A position in the newspaper. Maria Halkias reports in an exclusive to the News that Trader Joe's will open two North Texas locations next year:

One is the site of the old Arcadia Theater on Lower Greenville. The other is part of a former Kroger store at Preston Road and Park Boulevard in Plano in the Preston Towne Crossing Shopping Center. Both stores will be about 15,000 square feet and will sell beer and wine.

For all the scoop (it's behind the paywall), go to Halkias' story here. And for a really cool take on Dallas' retail fixation (big hair, big shopping ego), check out Cheryl Hall's column here (also behind the paywall).

Nothing like running right up against the holiday rush. Dr. Sue alerted me that she will be at the Dallas Central Market Tuesday handing out samples of her exclusive CM flavors. I'm assuming these are barks: ginger fog, blueberry-ancho-chile and cherry pecan.

The good doctor will be in between 11:30 a.m. and 3 p.m.

I love Dr. Sue's Gourmet Chocolates because she uses only the best, purest ingredients - organic where possible - to produce chocolate candy that's good for you in moderation.

Here's the story I wrote when I first heard of this amazing chocolatier.

File 2010/Staff photo

I don't usually post an e-mail verbatum, but there are a lot of good gift ideas and information about chocolatier appearances in this one from DallasChocolate.org, and I'm still beating back deadlines on stuff that pays the bills. So, here goes:

The Christmas holiday season is the busiest time of year for chocolatiers. We recently witnessed Katherine Clapner of Dude, Sweet Chocolate powering through an 18-hour shift and barely keeping up with the stream of people coming in the store to check out her chocolate treats. (Check out her shop's gift boxes and t-shirts too!)

This Saturday, December 17, at NorthPark is the Texas Chefs Association's 25th Annual "Treats of Christmas." On sale will be cakes, brownies, and gingerbread houses made by local professional and student bakers. The money raised goes to the North Texas Food Bank and the Union Gospel Mission. Also on sale are fun "do-it-yourself" gingerbread cookie decoration kits for the kids.

Dr. Sue of Dr. Sue's Chocolate will be at both EatZi's locations for the Artisan Market on Sunday, December 18, where she'll have samples of her old favorites like Hazelnut Toffee Bark and new favorites like All-Natural Peppermint Bark. Her barks make great gifts and are also available at Local Yocal in McKinney and Paper and Chocolate in Dallas.

More stuff on the jump.

Watching Bolsa Mercado go through the transformation from shell to bustling market space has been mesmerizing - if slow. For months after the announcement that the Bolsa crew was taking over the refurbished Kemp Garage a few doors west, it sat empty. Dum dee dee.

I got over there several weeks ago, when the equipment started going in: cold cases rescued from defunct Borders Books & Music, other stuff from hither and yon. Still, it was a long way from opening.

Now it's just 12 hours and counting: At 7 a.m., the doors will be thrown open for one of the biggest steps forward in food and wine for North Oak Cliff and Bishop Arts: a real market along the lines of a mini-Central Market-Whole Foods Market. But that doesn't capture it.

DMN STAFF: Evans Caglage/Staff Photographer
Oak Cliff Coffee Roasters coffee will be one of four locally roasted artisanal coffees available by the pound at Bolsa Mercado.

I have not heard back from the owners of Shine's Mediterranean Market, which recently closed, but I did get a note from Erkan Zohre, who tells me he was a manager at Shine's who also sometimes helped out in the kitchen. He and Yustun Yasa, a chef from New York, are now running Olive Tree Specialty Foods in Richardson, on the southeast corner of Coit and Arapaho . The "long serving" kitchen staff from Shine's is working there as well, he says.

"In addition to Shine's mouth-watering falafel, gyros/shawarma, Greek salad, baklavas, hummus, tabouli, and babaganoush," he writes, "one will find adana kebab (ground lamb marinated with special spices), empanadas, kunefe (kataifi with sweet cheese), and a delicious lunch buffet served daily for $ 8.99 plus tax." They also bake their own bread and desserts, and they sell produce, meats and grocery items from Turkey, Greece, Bulgaria, Israel, Russia, Ukraine, Croatia, Bosnia, Lebanon, France, Germany, Italy, Slovenia, Argentina and the Middle East.

Definitely sounds like a place to check out. Or maybe you've been? What did you think?

Olive Tree Specialty Foods, 970 N. Coit Road, Richardson; 972-238-7154; www.olivetreeonline.net

There's a new line of tequilas on the market -- PaQui -- and it's pretty impressive. The PaQui folks sent me sample bottles of all three on offer -- Silvera, Reposado and Añejo -- and over the weekend I lit a fire in the fireplace, poured glasses of all three and tried to match them up with people on my Christmas list.

When it comes to sipping, normally I'm a reposado girl -- I like some age on a tequila, but not too much richness or caramel flavor. PaQui Reposado delivered -- it's fine, elegant and just rich enough. Usually I prefer to use silver tequilas in cocktails, and this Silvera will definitely make a great margarita. But it's ideal for sipping too, with terrific agave character that's grassy and fresh, with with plenty of depth but no hard edges. My husband fell for the Añejo, and I have to say, it's pretty darn good, absolutely smooth and suave, with a brown sugar finish that went on forever. So which did I prefer? I don't know -- I'm going to have to repeat the taste test -- probably several times. Good thing I just stocked up on firewood! In any case, any of the three would make a wonderful gift for a tequila lover.

PaQui Silvera, Reposado and Añejo Tequila, about $45, $47 and $49 respectively at selected Sigel's and Centennial liquor stores

Craving a falafel sandwich, I swung by Shine's Mediterranean Market on Saturday -- you know, the cool shop on Preston and Belt Line where you could pick up lots of great Turkish ingredients or order doner kebabs, falafels and many more Mediterranean treats?

I was chagrined to find it was closed up tight, with a "For Lease" sign in the window.

I'm trying to find out what happened. The website and phone still work, but the machine doesn't take a message. If I can reach the owners, I'll update.

File photo

Here's something new this season from Dude Sweet Chocolate, Kathleen Clapner's wonderful Bishop Arts chocolate shop: sugar plum dates. Medjool dates are fabulous on their own, so rich, sweet and creamy. Imagine one filled with marzipan touched with a kiss of orange blossom water, plus dried apricots and an Indian spice called baharat, all cloaked in Dude Sweet's top-drawer dark chocolate. They're outrageously good, reminiscent of marrons glacés, the glazed chestnuts so popular at Christmastime in France. They're not inexpensive, at $15 for a box of five. But what a fantastic hostess gift or stocking stuffer.

Sugar Plum Dates, $15 at Dude Sweet Chocolate, 408 W. 8th St., Dallas; 214-943-5943; www.dudesweetchocolate.com

Here's something that would make a terrific holiday gift: Rebecca Creek Fine Texas Spirit Whiskey. The 80-proof spirit, made from a blend of corn, wheat, rye and malted barley, is a wonderful sipping whiskey, fine and smooth, with a flavor that reminds me of a good rye. (Rebecca Creek Distillery sent me a bottle to sample.) Billed as "Texas' first and finest spirit whiskey," it would be great in cocktails, too. Could this be the beginning of a beautiful movement?

Come to think of it, it would be a fabulous gift to bring to Thanksgiving dinner.

Rebecca Creek Fine Texas Spirit Whiskey, 750 ml bottle, about $33 to $36 at most Goody Goody Liquor, Centennial and Sigel's stores, as well as selected independents including American Spirits Beverage Co. in Addison and Spirits Liquor in Dallas

Great dried pasta is one of the most important ingredients in my pantry at home. We eat a lot of spaghetti -- usually Whole Foods' organic traditional bronze cut version, which a good deal for the quality at $1.99 per pound. For most of my life, penne was my favorite shape, but I hate penne rigate, which is usually what you find. I need the regular smooth penne, but not any old brand -- it needs to have great texture. My two favorites are Rustichella d'Abruzzo and Martelli, but they're both expensive, and I don't usually find them in my usual quick shopping rounds (I often find Rustichella at Central Market, but that's never quick!).

But a few days ago I was shopping at Target, and I found a pasta I loved: It's called trottole. It's like a big, thick, loopy super-fusilli -- or maybe a cross between fusilli and a shell -- and it's very good with Bolognese. (A spin through the web indicates that the one I got is bigger and more chunky than most.) Here it's pictured with one of my in-a-hurry-and-nothing-in-the-fridge standards: canned tuna, sliced red onion and celery, chopped parsley and canned cannelini beans, with a slick of good olive oil and plenty of freshly ground black pepper. Anyway, the version Target sells -- under its Archer Farms label -- is also bronze-cut and organic, and it has that great, roughish texture. It's pleasing to the tooth, and really grabs the sauce. The price is $2.29 per pound.

Which raises the question: What's your favorite pasta shape and brand? And what's your favorite quick way to turn it into dinner? My other two quick faves are rapini and Italian sausage or garlic and olive oil, with lots of chopped parsley and freshly grated Parm.

Archer Farms Organic Trottole, $2.29 per pound at Target

If you live in the McKinney area and haven't yet ordered a pasture-raised turkey for Thanksgiving, Local Yocal just off the McKinney Square will have a limited number from Richardson Farms in Rockdale.

They'll cost $5.50 a pound and require a $25 deposit. The turkeys will arrive on Saturday, Nov. 19. The market is closed Nov. 20, but will arrange pick-up by appointment on Nov. 21.

Sea Breeze Fish Market & Grill in Plano is remodeling and will be closed Sunday through Wednesday for the major part of the renovation (knocking down walls). It will reopen Thursday.

In preparation for this short closure, the fish market will be selling all fresh seafood and prepared foods for 20 percent off from 5 to 7 p.m. Saturday. The discount's not good for frozen items or special orders. First come, first served, until supplies run out.

Rehoboth Ranch still has some Broad Breasted White turkeys that were raised on pasture and supplemented with non-GMO grain available for Thanksgiving. They're $4.49 a pound with a $25 deposit. Order today and tomorrow at Texas Meats at the Dallas Farmers Market, and tomorrow at the Rehoboth stalls at the Coppell and McKinney Chestnut Square Farmers Markets. You can also order at the ranch in Greenville.

Tomorrow at the White Rock Local Market, you can also order pasture-raised birds from Homestead Heritage; I have no details on the specifics.

The White Rock market's Sarah Perry dropped me a line to say "...we welcome back local organic grower Farmer Jones Plants and Produce from Poetry, Texas. Certified organic farm Good Earth Organics will be there, too. And we welcome new vendor Lightsey Farms from Mexia. [KP notes the Lightseys are a long-time Texas farming family.]

"Lightsey may have some of their fabulous persimmons to bring, as well as pears and sweet potatoes. Look for acorn squash, red and green tomatoes, cherry tomatoes, leaf lettuce, rapini/broccoli raab, mesclun, Swiss chard, jalapenos, habaneros and more from Farmer Jones and the others."

Look for similar produce at other farmers markets.

Saturday, one day only, Stoney's Fine Wine will hold a 20-percent-off sale on all the wines in the store. It's great opportunity to stock up for the holidays. The store is in East Dallas on Oram, just off of Skillman.

Thinking of making a pecan pie for Thanksgiving? Some pecan sandies for Christmas? Well, brace yourself. Pecan prices have soared over what they were last year.

I found this out when I walked into Hines Nut Co. downtown yesterday to purchase a pound of pecans. The price was suddenly $6 a pound where it had been $3.50 a few weeks before. These $6-a-pounders were mammoth pecans, though, whereas the last ones I bought were just regular pecans.

I also checked with Texas Pecan Co., a huge North Dallas destination for holiday bakers, and owner Rodney Phillips says he's paying twice as much this year as last and charging about 40 percent more.

He says both the drought and the continuing demand from China - which now siphons off 30 percent of the U.S. crop, he says - have bitten into the number of pecans available domestically. And you know the mathematics of supply and demand.

Evans Caglage/Staff Photographer

Maria Halkias writes that the Richardson Whole Foods Market, one of the chain's smaller stores, will relocate three miles west to the Village on the Parkway, on the southeast corner of Belt Line and the tollway.

The Richardson store is 26,000 square feet, and the new store will be 36,000 square feet (not near the behemoth that is the Park Lane location, at something close to twice that size).

The new store is slated to open in spring 2013. Read the whole story here.

Jimmy's Food Store is moving wines out to make room for holiday stock. It's red dot sale means all wines on tables at the front of the store with a red dot are 50 percent off the regular price. While supplies last.

Matt Peterson reports over on The Scoop Blog that "shoppers who purchased certain bagged lettuce at Kroger, Walmart and Central Market may want to toss that salad after a voluntarily recall by California-based Taylor Farms Retail Inc."

The company raised concerns about salmonella contamination in "bags with 'best by' dates from Oct. 18 to 21 sold under the brand names Fresh Selections (at Kroger), Marketside (at Walmart) and Taylor Farms (at Central Market)."

Matt says to toss 'em, but I'm betting that if you return them to the store, you'll get a replacement or store credit.

Yesterday, I noticed a small display of locally grown Kieffer pears at the Whole Foods Market on Park Lane.

These backyard Texas pears are small, hard and yellow, sometimes with a red blush. Their crunchy flesh is extremely firm, but when they're ripe they have a lovely, sweet flavor with a little mineral edge, like a wine. Renee Studebaker makes an impassioned case in the Austin-American Statesman for eating them out of hand.

If you're not sure they're ripe, leave them in a cool, dry spot for a few days. I'm told they made excellent canning pears because of their firm flesh.

You know it's fall (really, ignore the temps) when Honeycrisp apples start arriving at stores. I was shopping at Whole Foods Market Saturday, and when the Sig-O wanted apples, we looked to see if Honeycrisps were in yet.

Indeed they were, and it was their very first day in the produce section. These are the smaller apples, as opposed to the one that are the size of basketballs. And they're eating fantastic: sweet, tart and crunchy. In fact, I'm enjoying one now.

Last week, I wrote that TJ's Fresh Seafood Market & Catering was the first Dallas seafood purveyor offering bycatch from Gulf waters as part of the next step in "ethical and sustainable seafood production." (Bycatch - swept into nets when fishermen are going after other species - has gotten thrown away until now.) TJ's actions followed an Edible Dallas & Fort Worth story on the same topic. (See the post here.)

Eager to look into this new phenom, I got some triggerfish from TJ's on Saturday and am here to report that it is some of the best seafood I've ever eaten: Its flesh is firm, with a nutty, almost sweet flavor. All I did before a quick stovetop saute was marinate the fillets briefly in lime and olive oil with a sprinkling of my favorite all-purpose seasoning, Greek-based Cavender's. At $20 a pound, it wasn't cheap, but the flavor coupled with the sustainable aspect made it totally worth it. Follow TJ's on Facebook for updates.

The fish gets it name because its dorsal fin snaps up and locks into place with a dangerous-looking spine on the end. But rub a much smaller fin behind the main event and the weaponry lies back down. And behind those fleshy lips, the fish's long, slender teeth look like a squirrel's. Yikes.

TJ's Fresh Seafood Market & Catering

Robert Hutchins reports in his newsletter that some of his Rehoboth Ranch chickens have stopped laying eggs, and when that happens it's time to turn them into stewing chickens.

This presents an interesting double-edged sword. Stewing chickens have much more flavor than even the most flavorful pastured-raised chickens (and these are all raised on pasture). But because they're older, they're tougher.

So you have to use different cooking methods. On the jump, I've added a couple of Robert's recipes to get you started if you're as intrigued by this as I am. Rehoboth Ranch sells on Saturdays at the Dallas (Texas Meats, Shed No. 2, Friday too), McKinney(Chestnut Square) and Coppell farmers markets.

My story today in the Arts & Life section reminds readers not to forget the second season at area farmers markets, when there's a resurgence of summer items such as zucchini and tomatoes as well as the coming of true fall crops, such as winter squashes (butternut, acorn, spaghetti), pumpkins, greens, lettuces, broccoli, cauliflower and more.

I also wrote a story about the increasing number of artisanal producers, farmers and farmers markets that are using Facebook pages to connect with their customers and keep them updated on changes.

On Lemley's Produce and Plant Farm page, the Canton farmer notes that he has Tennessee apples this week ("no wax, no preservatives straight from the tree") along with pumpkins, yellow and zucchini squash, onions, cucumbers, okra and a few peas.

Try looking up your favorite producers and markets.

File photo/Dallas Morning News

The new Edible Dallas and Fort Worth includes an article about "total catch" fishing. As the name implies, this means keeping and selling perfectly good, edible fish that is part of the bycatch when fisherman go after specific species, such as red snapper. The bycatch is usually trashed.

Writer Kelly Yandell says some chefs and seafood experts are "convinced that this is the new wave of ethical and sustainable seafood consumption." (Find Edible free at places like farmers markets and Whole Foods Market.)

Dallas is getting its first taste of this concept (at least, first to my knowledge - if you know otherwise, please tell) at TJ's Fresh Seafood Market & Catering. Every Saturday, TJ's will sell healthy Gulf fish that used to be thrown away, with names like barrelfish, triggerfish, mangrove snapper, cobia and others.

Has anyone had a chance to try this yet in Dallas or elsewhere?

While planning your Labor Day cookouts, don't forget farmers markets today (and Sunday for the Dallas market). Pasture-finished beef, lamb and pork are in good supply (especially for early birds). Ditto pasture-raised chicken.

At Coppell Farmers Market you should also be able to find Texas family-fished Alaskan salmon as well as Gulf seafood and a small amount of seafood, such as Maine scallops, sourced from fishermen on the East Coast with a family connection to Magnolia Seafood.

If you get up late, don't forget that Local Yocal just off the square in McKinney also has pasture-raised meats and poultry. I also love Good Earth Organic Farm's gorgeous red okra and Indian eggplant, at the McKinney Farmers Market.

Farmers markets are the best sources for Texas peaches as the season winds down. Also other fruits and veggies for your Labor Day feast.

David Woo/Staff Photographer
Red okra budding on the plant at Good Earth Organic Farm near Celeste. These haven't developed the characteristic, fuzzy pod that looks identical to green okra, only it's red.

You've still got at least an hour to shop the White Rock local Market, whose traffic, like so many markets is down with the heat.

Go anyway!

Three purveyors have gorgeous farmstead cheese. Homestead Land and Cattle has pastured chicken and smoked whole chickens. Also grits and cornmeal from their antique gristmill.

Good Earth Organics has beautiful red okra, Asian pears, eggplant and garlic braids. Yes, certified organic. The Finley Farms and the Heddins family have produce as does newcomer Triple M Farms.

Village Baking Co., Brennan Vineyards, JuHa Ranch, Lucido Pasta, a couple of cookie vendors - they're all there right now.

Oh, yeah. Magnolia Seafood has the most gorgeous Maine scallops fished by Capt. George's relatives up East. I had the Gulf shrimp last week, and posted about it here. The only bad news: Capt. George didn't get back from his boats in time to set up at Coppell. Check next Saturday.

Anne Byrn, creator of the Cake Mix Doctor cookbooks, comes to the Dallas Central Market 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Friday, where she will introduce her new premium cake mixes the store now carries - with samples, of course. ('Bet she'll sign books, too.)

I got a preview of these mixes when the food-journalist-turned-cookbook-author visited earlier this year to talk about The Cake Mix Doctor Bakes Gluten-Free. She gave me samples of her new cake mixes, which I promptly turned over to my friend, Rosemary, who loves to bake.

Rosemary wrote back: "Thumb's up on the Cake Mix Doctor's Mix! I used it to make my pineapple Cool Whip cake. The two layers baked up a beautiful golden brown, literally picture perfect. To frost with the pineapple-cool whip mixture, each layer has to be split in two, and the cakey "body" was perfect to do that. 'Turns out a little more like a torte. Yum, yum. Great product. Thank you very much!"

The Cake Mix Doctor's Mixes come in two flavors: old-fashioned yellow and deep, dark chocolate.

Central Market kicked off its 16th annual Hatch Chile Festival on Wednesday, a celebration where the store goes crazy for Hatch, featuring the roasted chiles from Hatch, New Mexico, in everything they can think of (Hatch demi-baguette, Hatch cheddar loaf, Hatch chicken salad, Hatch crab cakes, Hatch salsa (the best), Hatch turkey breast, Hatch remoulade, Hatch goat cheese spread, etc. - you get the idea).

Paul Wackym, the artisanal cookie-maker behind Wackym's Kitchen, will be doing an in-store demo all day Saturday with his special Hatch chile-chocolate chip cookies. They'll be for sale at least a month.

In the parking lot this weekend, employees will be grilling Hatch burgers, hot dogs and sausage and serving them on house-made Hatch chile buns. The tumbling roasters will also be going, too; roasting chiles smell so good.

If you're feeling creative, CM also has a Hatch recipe contest going on. The winner gets 75 pounds of Hatch chiles and a $100 CM gift certificate. Deadline for entry is Monday.

Juan Garcia/Staff Photographer

Sprouts Farmers Market, the stripped-down sprouty grocer where you can find good deals, basics and a good supplement selection, is coming to Carrollton. The official opening is Wednesday.

745 E. Hebron Parkway, at Josey, Carrollton; www.sprouts.com

Well, I didn't exactly lie. Last week, farmer J.T. Lemley told me about Elberta peaches, the mother of all the best-tasting peaches of today, such as Loring and Bounty. He explained that they can barely travel from the field to his on-site Canton farm market - they're just too fragile - much less make the trek to the Dallas Farmers Market. Hence, the hybrids to produce tougher skins.

Today, I made a quick stop at his Dallas Farmers Market stall and what do I see? Elbertas! I bought six. Shared four. Have two waiting in my kitchen. One is showing the signs of travel fatigue, bruised and weeping. It gets eaten tonight. The other will be sacrificed at breakfast.

The weeper is already intoxicatingly fragrant. Can't wait to take the first bite. Oh yeah, Elbertas are also fuzzy, like peaches of old. I've no idea if they will be at Lemley's stall tomorrow or the weekend, but if you're a fan, you might want to check.

Every year around this time, Central Market brings in fresh raspberries from the Northwest - flown in and pricey. If memory serves, something like $6 a half-pint.

I always knew raspberries in particular were fragile, but it was really driven home to me last week when I was visiting the west coast of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada, which is just across from the San Juan Islands of Washington state. Up there, summer has just started.

I was shopping at a local market - something like a Sprouts Farmers Market - and the produce section featured pints of locally grown raspberries. I bought some, of course, but they had already started collapsing and losing their body in the store - and these babies had barely traveled from the farm to the market!

Squishy or not, the flavor was something to behold - blindingly bright and sweet, and nothing like the flavorless orbs we import from California. Frozen raspberries come closer. I might have to purchase some of the CM imports, just to relive that memory.

British Columbia Ministry of Agriculture

Right now, this minute, at J.T.Lemley's stalls at the Dallas Farmers Market, you can buy beautiful Cherokee purple heirloom tomatoes that are ready to eat. I wrote about how good these were when I visited his Canton farm and bought some. He's also got terrific freestone peaches.

Next week at Kroger and Central Market, you should be able to find Angelcots, white apricots, described in PR materials as having an "intense apricot flavor but the texture of a nectarine." I can't vouch for 'em - has anyone had these before? - but I can tell you about 'em.

Freida's
Angelcots

Calling all cookware fetishists ... I finally made it over to the new Le Creuset boutique at Inwood Shopping Village and loved how surprisingly sleek and modern it was. (How about that orange-tiled entry?) The store is the first Dallas solo outpost for the nearly 90-year-old French manufacturer.

In addition to a rainbow-hued selection of the company's famed enameled cast-iron cookware, I found plenty of cookbooks, accessories and an island-style demo kitchen perfect for visiting chefs.

Speaking of, Rise No. 1's Hedda Dowd and chef Cherif Brahmi have already stopped by to whip up recipes from their recent book, Rise to the Occasion: A French Food Experience.

Inwood Village, 5450 W. Lovers Lane, Suite 138, Dallas; 214 351-3850

Photos: Cwynn

If you live in North Dallas and can't swing by the downtown Dallas Farmers Market, don't forget that Celebration Restaurant runs a nifty little market in its parking lot, 8 a.m. to noon on Saturdays.

That's Brian Spaniel, who comes to Celebration regularly and owns Cherokee Ranch with his mom, Dorothy. (She's at Eden's Organic Garden Center in Balch Springs.) The ranch is near Ennis, and all the animals are raised on pasture. Availability of cuts depends on when they've most recently harvested.

Celebration's deal is to provide space for vendors like Spaniel, as well as Paula Lambert's Mozzarella Co., Texas Olive Ranch, Stephanie's Premium Bakery, Lucido's Pasta and others, but with a twist.

Kroger just upped its game with the addition of Murray's Cheese counters in three of its stores. This is the celebrated New York cheese shop that restaurant critic Leslie Brenner loves from when she lived in NYC.

We got a preview earlier in the week at the Mockingbird store, and cheese-heads will be pleased. Even if you're new to artisanal cheese, there's plenty of signage and staff to help you navigate the 175 types.

They're grouped in sections such as "blue cheese," "melting cheese" and "washed rind cheese." You'll see the familiar, such as Maytag Blue, as well as cheese superstar Upland Pleasant Ridge Reserve (American Cheese Society's 2010 best of show) and local Paula Lambert's hoja-santa goat cheese. One of the coolest cheeses we sampled was a Smokehaus Blue that got smokier the closer you munched the outer edge.

Keep reading to find out if Murray's is at a Kroger near you.

At Coppell Farmers Market at 9 a.m. Saturday, get in on a free food preservation class. "This class will present an overview of different ways to preserve market foods (canning, blanching/freezing, dehydrating, etc.) and show what equipment is needed for each method," according to the press release.

Also, if you're coming from Dallas on I-635, you'll want to avoid the construction at Denton Tap and Belt Line. "It is suggested that if you're coming north on Belt Line from LBJ Freeway, avoid that intersection altogether by exiting on Freeport. Drive north on Freeport to Bethel Road (by Hard 8 Pit BBQ) and turn right (east). You'll run right into the market and avoid all the construction."

I've gotten three email blasts on local wine, spirits and beer sales for the holiday weekend.

Phillip Nikpour says that mix-'n'-match six-packs are 60 percent off at the Wine Therapist, noon to 7 p.m. today and Saturday and 3 to 11 p.m. Sunday. He's got some nice wines, too.

At Pogo's Wine & Spirits, it's all about spirits, ales and beers now through Monday. Check out the list on the jump.

And Sigel's Fine Wines has a sale through Monday as well on spirits, mixes, beer and select wines. Check out its list on the jump, too. (Well, what do you know? Antinori Santa Cristina's on sale for $8.99. We can party like it's 2000 again.)

TJ's Fresh Seafood Market is closing for renovations Sunday through Thursday.

Their email says they don't want any seafood or other fresh product left at the end of the day Saturday, so everything is 25 percent off from 4 to 6 p.m. Saturday. This includes "Copper River salmon, TJ's "famous cocktail shrimp" and anything else perishable that is in the store."

TJ's is in the southwest quadrant of Preston and Forest. Go for it.

Kim Pierce has a very cool story this morning in which she offers 10 tips to make the most of local farmers markets -- including her three favorite markets. Did you know North Texas is now raising Berkshire pork? I didn't. Kim also sheds light on the markets that offer organic dairy products, the markets that offer samples of Texas wines and more. Khampha Bouaphanh's photos are gorgeous. In case you missed it, here's a link. And here's a link to Kim's updated farmers market guide. And here is a very cool interactive farmers market guide map.

Photo of organic eggs and produce at McKinney Farmers Market by Khampha Bouaphanh/Special Contributor

Ham Orchard, everyone's favorite peach destination, opened one day early this year -- on Saturday.

I stopped by on Sunday and was amazed to find that our local peaches are already wonderful! Flavor Rich, a juicy yellow cling with wonderful, bright flavor was the star of the day. I hesitated between a small bag and a big one. So glad I got a big one -- I can't stop eating them.

They also had amazing canteloups and some pretty little zucchini, plus some hard, black plums and beautiful-looking, but not very promising apricots. Oh, and apricot or peach fried pies and ice cream.

Ham Orchard, 11939 County Road 309, Terrell; 972-524 -2028; www.hamorchard.com

2009 File photo

OK, here's some news I'm not the tiniest bit ambivalent about: Murray's Cheese is coming to Dallas. Maria Halkias had the story in March, and Nancy Nichols reported progress on Side Dish today. I just caught up with Murray's publicist Deena Siegelbaum, who filled in some details for me.

But first, a word about Murray's. Nichols' post mentions that many New Yorkers think Murray's is the best cheese shop in New York. I can't weigh in on that exactly because it's been some years since I've lived in New York and I may not have caught up on all the good cheese shops there. But I can definitely say it was my favorite by a long shot during the many years I lived there, and it remains the best cheese shop I've been to in the U.S.

Murray's forged a partnership with Kroger supermarkets, and they've already opened 25 Murray's store-within-a-stores in Cincinnati, Atlanta and Houston, Siegelbaum tells me. The first North Texas Murrary's, in a Kroger in Irving, will open on May 25. Two others will follow -- one on Mockingbird in Dallas (opening June 15) and one in Fort Worth (opening July 6).

A friend was at Jimmy's Food Store and sent in this pic. Shades of the old-time way of doing business:

'Seems a farmer came in and asked if co-owner Mike DiCarlo would like his newly picked squash blossoms (left) and 8-ball squash (these are lighter green than you sometimes see). DiCarlo, recognizing a deal, quickly said yes.

There aren't too many. For sale while they last.

I'm not taking a stand on the debate about relative healthiness. This is about consumer demand. Check out that photo.

This is a package of HEB root beer I got today at Central Market. Gourmet real-sugar sodas are easy enough to find. But when a major supermarket chain decides to create its own entire line of store-brand "generic" soda that way, that's saying something.

Apparently the company has produced a sugar-only cola and something called "Dr. B" for a while. Recently added: Orange Burst, Wild Red, and Old Fashioned Root Beer. All made, according to the HEB website, "right here in Texas."

I'm assuming there are places in Texas that have actual HEB stores where this stuff is available at the regular supermarkets. Since at this point the only HEB stores hereabouts are Central Market, that's where you'll need to head for this. OTOH, if HEB is making money with these sodas, how long can it be before other store brands will follow suit? (And no, I've not tasted it yet. Still chillin'.)

[UPDATE: Pretty good. Does the pure sugar make a difference? Hard to say because it has a lot of relatively strong tastes (at least for root beer) batting around. I don't think I'd mark it quite as high as my fave, the only sporadically available St. Arnold (also of Texas). But I'd like to do a taste-off. Bottom line: I'll buy it again.]

In the crazy-quilt of Texas liquor laws, Sigel's Fine Wines on Fitzhugh actually functions as a wholesaler to restaurants in certain areas. Every so often, the retail store reduces its inventory of restaurant wines not purchased for various reasons (wine programs change, vintages change, restaurants go out of business, etc.).

This time the inventory-reduction sale includes all manner of wines from very inexpensive Barefoot Zinfandel to Pierre Damoy Chapelle Chambertin 2006. (My breaks heart to see Planeta Syrah 2005 marked down from $49.99 to $9.99. I'll bet someone has already snatched it up.)

Anyway, the full list is on the jump. Sale runs through May 28, but of course the choice lots won't last that long.

The Grapevine Farmers Market won't be open this Saturday because of Grapevine's Main Street Days, according to EatGreenDFW. "The market will have a booth at Main Street Days located by Wilhoite's with peaches, sliced watermelon, jarred items, local honey, nuts, and jerky! The market returns to its regular business hours next week."

Speaking of peaches, Ham Orchards opens its summer season Saturday; hours are 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily through Aug. 1. They will have peaches on Saturday. It's located east of Dallas on U.S. 80 between Terrell and Elmo, south side of the road.

Finally, Sarah Perry tells me that Windy Hill Organics from Comanche, a popular vendor, returns Saturday to White Rock Local Market. Windy Hill is not certified organic, but uses organic practices.

This is a deja-vu post I do more or less every year at this time. On a recent shopping trip to Whole Foods Market, I bought the early-season organic Mexican peaches - not as good as the peaches to come, but still a welcome prelude to the season.

Texas blueberries have been in markets a few weeks; these early ones come from growing areas farther south. And conventionally grown California cherries always lead off the cherry season here. Which isn't really our season per se. It's just the time of year we can get these wonderful sweet fruits.

I saw some Texas strawberries last Saturday at the McKinney Farmers Market at Chestnut Square. As for local peaches, Ham Orchards near Terrell will open Saturday with fresh-picked peaches to sell.

The official opening of Natural Grocers in the former Casa LindaTheater location is Tuesday, but it's offering a soft opening today (meaning you can go by and shop, but the staff is really in training and trying to get everything right at the last minute). It's BYOB: Bring your own bags. The store stresses organics and has a wide selection of supplements.

When you go by on opening day, Mighty Joe Young will be playing on video. That was the final movie shown before the Casa Linda Theater closed in 1999. Read reporter David Flick's full story here.

Natural Grocers

Maria Halkias' Business story has all the details here, but basically Central Market has jumped ahead of the Trader Joe's speculation to lay claim to the empty Borders space at Preston-Royal.

To quote a small portion of her story: "The store will have a large kosher assortment, will serve hot items in a prepared foods case and will include a small seating area for eating in. Tom Thumb just expanded a store at Preston Road and Forest Lane that's known for its kosher offerings."

Not only is Trader Joe's sniffing around the same neighborhood for a location, but North Carolina-based Fresh Market is trying to elbow into the action, according to the story. And there's already a Natural Grocers and Whole Foods Market at Preston-Forest. I mean, why don't they all just offer store-to-door service to Preston-Hollow residents? This is a ridiculous concentration of grocery stores.

I just pulled out a can of tuna, and what do you know: It's no longer a 6-ounce can. It's FIVE ounces. There has been lots of media coverage of the way grocery manufacturers are hiding price increases by shrinking packaging.

I can't say it bothers me too much because I look for such things and take them into consideration. But I'm not sure everyone does - or has time to. I also wonder what this is going to do to recipes calling for a can of this, a box of that. The measurements are going to be wrong.

Do the shrinking packages bother you? Do you feel like food makers are trying to put one over on you? Or is this a small problem in an expanding universe?

In case you missed Maria Halkias' story this morning, here's a link: Trader Joe's is coming to Texas. We may have a TJ's in Dallas within the year.

If it does indeed pan out as planned, this is very good news indeed for Dallas food-and-wine lovers. Have you ever been to a Trader Joe's? I shopped there frequently when I lived in L.A.

It's odd that Trader Joe's has something in common with Aldi, even if it isn't necessarily an ownership connection. I had never been in an Aldi, so I stopped by one this morning. Aldi and Trader Joe's couldn't be more different. Aldi is a place to buy low-cost brands of mainstream supermarket foods -- not just staples, but brightly colored children's cereals and processed items.

While also known for its low prices, Trader Joe's is much more health- and gourmet-focused than Aldi. I always counted on it for things like wine, spirits, flowers, whole-grain breads and cereals, vitamins, olive oil, dried fruit and nuts, a few prepared foods like hummous and taramasalata, soaps, candles, chocolate. I had friends who loved the TJ brand frozen entrees. While Aldi carries things like Cattlemen's Ranch meats, TJ's carries meats from Niman Ranch, plus Kosher chickens, organic dairy products, etc. In terms of wine, Trader Joe's (in California, anyway) doesn't just sell "Two Buck Chuck," but also a usually decent selection of inexpensive wines from Italy, France, Spain, Argentina, Chile and more, all at really great prices. Part of the fun of the place is the employees, and their funny Hawaiian shirts is just the start. They're friendly, warm and helpful and they always seem to be a great mood. It really makes the experience a pleasure.

So, have you ever shopped at one? Do you think you'll be a regular when it comes here? I know I will!

2006 photo of a Trader Joe's in Riverside, California by Francis Specher/Bloomberg News

FOLLOW LESLIE: http://twitter.com/lesbren

Farmer J.T. Lemley in Shed No. 1 at the Dallas Farmers Market called to tell me that he's now harvesting several kinds of squash, including 8-ball, 1-ball, zucchini and several kinds of yellow squash at his farm near Canton. (He loved the recent rain.)

I bought some of his tomatoes from Marfa (his field tomatoes aren't ripe yet), and they were darned good. Oh joy, to have tomato season upon us again.

I also made short order of his big, green-topped spring onions. I sauteed them with some local mushrooms and added these and sun-dried tomatoes to red quinoa with just a little seasoning. Finished it all with some shredded asiago cheese. A delicious and healthy one-bowl meal in 20 minutes, with good leftovers.

File 2010/Staff Photo
8-ball (green) and 1-ball (yellow) squash

I had been sort of curious about Hypnotic Donuts since Saerom Yoo wrote about what was at that point a pop-up business in Neighbors Go last year, so I was intrigued when owner James St. Peter sent me an email offering to send some to the paper. Thank you, Mr. St. Peter! Since the Neighbors Go story, St. Peter has opened a shop in Far North Dallas.

Of course everyone was excited -- who doesn't like donuts? "They look like Voodoo Donut in Portland," said design editor Marilyn Bishkin. They reminded me of Gourdough's in Austin.

One glazed donut was topped with peanut butter (it tasted like Skippy), banana slices, honey and bacon. That's the one in the close-up. Another had some super-sweet pink peppermint icing, crumbled strawberry pop tarts and sprinkles. One had crushed lemon candies. Another had thick slices of raw jalapeno and some kind of very sweet icing -- I couldn't tell what flavor it was because all I could taste was jalapeno. And there were others still.

A few people loved them. Bridgette Williams, an editor at dallasnews.com, described the one with pop tarts as, "sweet and tangy, kind of like the taste of a waffle or donut in strawberry sauce. The oddest thing was crunching on pop tarts while eating a donut! You don't expect to 'crunch when you're eating a donut. I'd definitely have another one!" "Love the peanut butter, banana and bacon donut," said designer Jamie Huckaby, "and I don't like donuts." Guide Live editor Samatha Urban loved the "Elvis-style" banana-bacon one: "It's like having breakfast with the King. And I love combining breakfast foods together in new ways, so this one was right up my alley."

Others? Not so much. "The toppings are too big," said food editor and features editor Cathy Barber. "They're hard to eat. I tried one of the maple-bacon and the texture of the bacon wasn't good. It was too tough." "They're not Voodoo," said Marilyn Bishkin.

To me they were way too sugary, too gloppy, too much.

The funniest was designer Lisa Viegel. "I've never met a donut I didn't like," she said, walking over to try one. Two seconds later, she came back: "I'm gonna pass."

Hypnotic Donuts, 17390 Preston Road (between Frankford and Campbell -- the store does not have a sign), Dallas; www.hypnoticdonuts.com

Think this might be the farmers market season when you try your hand at old-fashioned canning? Ball, the company that makes those distinctive caning jars and lids, is offering a beginner's kit to get you started.

It's called the Ball Canning Discovery Kit and includes a canning rack, jar lifter and three jars and tops. Also included: a guide to canning and recipes. It's $11.99 online (where it's already available only on back order). You'll still need a large stockpot.

The PR company also says you can also find it at Lowe's, Kroger and Wal-Mart.

The start of Passover is just a week away. Are you making your own gefilte fish? I thought not. It's an ordeal. Well, maybe "ordeal" is too strong a word, but that's what Jewish grandmas always say. I made it once and thought it was well worth the effort, but if you're preparing an entire Seder, gathering all the right fish, grinding them, poaching the quenelles, etc., is enough work to send most cooks over the edge.

Unfortunately, house-made gefilte fish are not easy to come by in Dallas delis. But a couple of fish markets I know of make their own.

A few days ago I got a timely press release from Sea Breeze Fish Market in Plano, mentioning that they'll be selling house-made gefilte fish for the holiday. They were kind enough to send me a sample, pictured here. Owner Rick Oruch makes them from Lake Superior whitefish, walleye pike, tilapia and redfish (nothing overfished!); they're $2.99 each. Made in the slightly sweet style from fish ground to medium coarseness, they're smallish and dense, but not too. The one I tasted was seriously undersalted (who knows -- maybe the recipe will be adjusted by then). Sprinkling salt on each one isn't ideal, but it's still far better than what swims out of a jar from Manischewitz.

Strawberries are so perishable, which is why we end up with not-ripe fresh ones, bred to travel, from faraway places like Southern California. At the Park Lane Whole Foods Market, I just picked up a 2-pound container of ripe, ready-to-eat strawberries from Landry-Poche Farms in Springfield, La., near New Orleans.

These luscious strawberries are eating perfectly right now. You can't put them in the fridge for a day or two. You can freeze them, if you're not going to eat all of them right away. Vine-ripened strawberries come around so rarely. If you're a strawberry freak, you'll run to get your hands on these. The price is $6.79.

Ever tasted Katherine Clapner's silky and suave Dude, Sweet chocolates? Now you can get them at Neiman Marcus -- and not just in Texas. Melissa Repko has the story, via Bruce Tomaso at the Scoop blog.

Photo by Evans Caglage/Staff Photographer

TJ's Fresh Seafood Market is expecting its first shipment of Columbia River wild "Springer" salmon any day now. This is a salmon-lover's salmon, what TJ's owner Jon Alexis calls the "rib-eye of the sea."

"Springer salmon are the first to spawn," wrote Leslie Brenner in a post last year, detailing her purchase and preparation of a precious portion. She called it "crazy good." At $32.99 a pound, it ought to be.

After the Springers come the king salmon, with Copper River season starting mid-May. And one thing you can always count on: Alaska is extremely protective of its salmon stocks, with strict quotas that never allow it to become overfished.

Years ago, I used to get my Picolos Pickles fix at a local Tom Thumb, which carried the Corsicana-made, best pickles in Texas (and maybe the Southwest). After the store dropped them, I was left to order online or stop on the way to Austin and pick some up. Or hope a kind friend would gift me for Christmas.

No more. While prowling the aisles recently at Jimmy's Food Store in East Dallas, I came across a whole shelf of the wonderful bread-and-butter pickles and their spin-offs (relishes, dills, etc.).

What makes them so good? They're crisp, with just the right balance of sweet, tangy and spicy elements. A pickle connoisseur's pickle.

Picolos website

White Rock Local Market kicks off its third season 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturday and continues every second and fourth Saturday through the end of the year. Green Spot Market & Fuels, 702 N. Buckner, at Northcliff; 214-319-7768; www.whiterocklocalmarket.com.

Sure, it's early for our favorite local produce, such as field tomatoes, peaches and blueberries. But there are plenty of wonderful, locally produced and artisanal goods plus seasonal greens, cabbage, hydroponics and more.

Coppell Farmers Market holds another winter market, 8 a.m. to noon. Same story there. 455 W. Bethel Road, (between Denton Tap Road and Freeport Parkway) in Old Town Coppell; 972-304-7043; www.coppellfarmersmarket.org.

And Patina Green in McKinney will open an hour early, at 9:30 a.m., according to EatGreenDFW, to let customers check out organic meats, cheeses, eggs, milk and produce. 116 N. Tennessee, McKinney; 972-548-9141, www.patinagreen.typepad.com
.

Evans Caglage/Staff Photographer

I just got to eat the first great mandarin I've tasted since I moved to Texas. Our garden editor, Mariana Greene, brought five pounds of them to the office this morning -- what a treat! They're fragrant and firm, seedless, with a thinnish clingy peel, intense flavor and wonderful tart acidity that's in perfect balance with their sweetness. Thank you, Mariana!

They're Clementines, which is a variety of mandarin (that's Citrus reticulata, often referred to as "tangerine"). Other varieties of mandarins include Satsumas, Pixies and Gold Nuggets.

Los Angeles Times Food Editor and produce expert (and my old pal) Russ Parsons explained how they came to be known as tangerines in a 2006 L.A.T. article: "The popular name tangerine is a commercial invention that was attached in the mid-19th century because the first mandarins imported into the U.S. were shipped from the Moroccan seaport of Tangiers," he wrote. "So unfamiliar were these fruits that they were sometimes sold under the name 'mandarin orange,' a usage that today continues mainly in the canned version."

What's been wrong with the others I've eaten since moving here? Usually, they've lacked flavor and acid. I keep trying them, but they always disappoint. Just last night, after eating two disappointing Pixies (which used to be my faves in California), I concluded that maybe they just keep all the good ones for themselves in California and send us the duds. Who could blame them?

But these are fantastic. Mariana picked them up (they're sold under the "Darling" brand ) at Whole Foods in Lakewood, where they're about $8 for a 5-pound box. According to Parsons' story, Clementines' season generally only lasts through early March, so get 'em while you can!

Follow Leslie: http://twitter.com/lesbren

A nod to DMN retail reporter Maria Halkias for passing this along to me....

Warehouse operator Costco has said it will discontinue the sale of fish defined as "at risk," pledging only to resume when those species are certified as sustainable by the Marine Stewardship Council.

That means no more Atlantic cod, Atlantic halibut, Chilean sea bass, Greenland halibut, grouper, monkfish, orange roughy, redfish, shark, skates, rays, swordfish and bluefin tuna.

In its three-page seafood sustainability policy available online, the company added:

Moving forward, we expect to carefully examine whether there are other species that we should cease to sell because of a consensus around documented concerns that the species are at great risk.

Whether a fish is deemed "sustainable" can be a tricky business, as the Wall Street Journal chronicled today.

Costco will continue to sell farmed seafood, and is working with the World Wildlife Fund and other groups to revise its supplier standards to promote better stewardship.

Chef Bradley Balch just sent me a new batch of his Chef Bradley Gourmet Creations sauces - all formulated with reduced-sugar, but they pack terrific flavor. Get the scoop on my latest favorite, It's a Carolina Thing, over on the Dallas Life blog.

Teresa Gubbins reports over on Pegasus News that Dorian Isenberg is closing J Dorian Chocolatier after Feb. 28. She details her conversation with the North Dallas chocolate-maker, one of the pioneers in a very small club in North Texas. 'Says he wants to spend more time with his family.

I'll see if I can learn more about this tomorrow. Isenberg was the first serious chocolatier to open in Dallas after Rex Morgan, who sold his company to NOKA and whose legacy lives on in chocolatier Andrea Pedraza's CocoAndre in Oak Cliff. (She worked for Morgan for decades.)

There's no such heir apparent for Isenberg, who raised the bar for truffles and other excellent chocolate confections.

File 2006/Staff Photo

When the weather gets cool, I turn into a green tea addict -- I sip it all day long at my desk. Chinese greens are my teas of choice -- jasmine pearls, pi lo chun, lung ching, that sort of thing -- and I've long bought them online at Upton Tea Imports.

I'd love to find a great place to buy these kind of teas in Dallas, though. Do you know of one? At the moment I'm craving some kind of high-grade Chinese green flavored with chrysanthemum. The quality I'm looking for is a bit higher than what you find at 99 Ranch and the other big Asian supermarkets.

That could be me carrying bags of tea through the streets of Dallas.

Photo of a woman carrying bags of tea in Fa Chen China by Edward Cody/Washington Post

One of the problems with highly perishable wares, such as fresh fish, is you've got to sell it quickly or it goes bad. So TJ's Fresh Seafood Market finds itself in a bind.

Yesterday, it got late-afternoon air shipments of fresh seafood. Today it's snowy and icy outside, and North Texans are bunkering down at home.

Solution: TJ's will be open from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. today, and everything perishable in the store will be discounted 25 percent. That's a great deal if you live in the neighborhood, especially if you're up for a brisk, winter walk.

A tweet from @davidlebovitz just lead me to a post on his blog that leads off with a great photo of Rio Star grapefruits at Central Market. The Paris-based author (and former Chez Panisse pastry chef) apparently was in Texas last month, and taught a class in celebration of Central Market's citrus festival. (He doesn't say which Central Market or where in Texas.) His thoughts on the grillions of varieties of citrus you can find in Dallas make for wonderful reading. And there's a bonus -- he provides links to great-sounding citrus recipes at the end. His recipes, by the way, are wonderful. If you try one, please let us know here in a comment.

UPDATE: @imccanntx (Ian McCann) tweets that "He was in Dallas, FW, Houston, Austin and I think San Antonio. He posted a bunch from the Lovers Lane CM." Thank you, Ian! Did anyone get to see him?

PR maven Karen Lukin just sent me an e-mail saying Whole Foods Markets will close at 4 p.m. today and open at 10 a.m. on Thursday. So if you were planning a little shopping, do it now.

Meanwhile, Central Markets and Natural Grocers plan to stay open regular hours - for now. 'Can't say for other stores, but it might be smart to call first.

Now Side Dish is reporting that it was all a mistake: Tom Spicer is not losing his garden.

Nancy Nichols has the story at Side Dish: Tom Spicer seems to be saying he's being evicted from the garden next to his shop, FM 1410. What a shame.

2009 photo of Tom Spicer by Allison V. Smith/Special Contributor

Megan Rountree from Keller is opening Legacy Cakes Bakery in Grapevine on Tuesday and managed to make the cut for TLC's Cake Boss: Next Great Baker. Read about it on the new Dallas Life Blog.

Fruth Farms Southwest, which used to bring its wonderful wares to Flavors From Afar, has arranged for a new drop-off point, starting this Friday at noon.

It's Plaza Health Foods just across Snider Plaza from Flavors. Caroline or Allen Fruth will bring eggs with them weekly and take special orders for their free-range meats.

Give 'em a shout at 214-762-0994. A few years ago, Joyce Saenz Harris wrote a wonderful Dallas Morning News story about the Fruths and their Cash, Texas, farm; check it out here.

I eat a breakfast taco almost every day, and one of the staples that makes it outstanding (never waste time or calories on mediocre food) is Zapata Refried Black Beans. I was totally undone when Whole Foods Market dropped them, and I complained to a regional manager.

I've tried all the other brands, see, and none has the great, beany flavor and smooth texture of Zapata. I eat them by themselves, too. It is possible that a slightly higher amount of sodium accounts for what I'm calling better flavor, but I think it's more, maybe something in the way they're cooked or the addition of a mystery ingredient (natural flavoring).

Now I'm delighted to report that they are back on the shelf at the Preston-Forest store. Does anyone else share my fetish for Zapata? Have you tried them?

Cupcakes? Meh. I can usually pass them up in favor of other treasured foods. But Sprinkles caught me off-guard with its German chocolate cupcakes, which are a limited-time offering through Jan. 30. (Sprinkles sent me samples last week.)

The frosting is a knock-out. The press release describes it as "a rich, golden caramel laced with fresh coconut and crunchy pecans," and I could not have said it better. It's piled on, and am I glad it is. I want to savor every morsel. The cupcake itself is a moist, lighter chocolate.

Like I said, I hardly ever get this hyper about a cupcake. Maybe it's all that sugar. (Not. There's no evidence linking hyperactivity in kids to sugar, no matter what parents say.) They're $3.50 each or $39 a dozen.

Albertsons is shuttering five stores in the North Texas area and seven total across Texas. Get the details in Maria Halkias' story in today's Dallas Morning News business section.

Whole Foods Market and Market Street both introduced nutrition-scoring systems a year ago, and this month they're ramping up to make them easier to use and see.

The two systems, ANDI and NuVal, are both based on nutrient density. But choosing only foods with high scores won't guarantee a healthful diet.

Check it out. My intro is here, and it includes links to the stories that tell you how to make the most of the numbers.

This close-up shows an Aggregate Nutrient Density Index (ANDI) score at Whole Foods Market. Photo by EVANS CAGLAGE/Staff Photographer

Whole Foods Market makes it official: wine and beer are now on sale at Preston-Forest. There's not a lot of wine, so far; it's in the area where gourmet oils and vinegar used to be and scattered in displays around the store. Beer has taken over the cold case where items like mushrooms and in-shell nuts used to be abutting the produce section.

Late-breaking farmers market news: Saturday is the first day for the Four Seasons Market at Sachse, a year-round market just northeast of Garland inside the former Sachse City Hall. That's great news because it continues on Sunday, when North Texas is expecting some chill weather.

The market includes some terrific vendors. I didn't have time to link them, but you'll find I've blogged or written about several: Truth Hill Farms (pastured meats), Candi's Cupcakes & Cakes, Brisket Heaven (oven-roasted brisket and jalapeno salsa), Empire Baking (artisan breads), Dallas Spice/Kurry King (Indian spice and dahl blends), WeMe Dallas (rustic bread, killer ranch dressing), Kap's Pepper Co. (peppered jellies, including habanero), Little John's Produce and Good Earth Organic Farm (local and regional produce), Carol's Candies and Lucido Pasta. Look for non-food vendors, too, including Purple Ranch Farm (lavender products).

The Sachse market takes place 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. every Friday-Sunday. The address is 5560 State Highway 78 (Lavon Drive).

After seven years, Nancy and Gary Krabill (pictured) are closing their wonderful little retail store, Flavors From Afar, in Snider Plaza. But they plan to expand their tours to Italy under the newly christened banner of Flavors of Italy Travel.

Already, four of their five 2011 Tuscany trips are sold out, leaving space only in the one scheduled from Oct.15-22. New trips are being offered in 2011 to the Lakes region and Umbria, which I think is just as compelling as Tuscany and less traveled. The couple offers classes Jan. 15 and 22 about walking tours in Florence and Sienna ($50 for both; $35 for one).

Products currently sold at FFA will continue to be available online at their e-commerce site and delivered through Artizone.

Come wish them success with their new set-up at a customer appreciation party from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Jan. 15; the store closes for good Jan. 31.

As of Jan. 5, 2011, all Newflower Farmers Markets in Dallas, Austin and Bee Cave will be reborn as Sunflower Farmers Markets, like this one pictured in Colorado.

Nothing else about the stores will change. They'll still be under the same ownership and management teams.

When Sunflower came to Texas, there was a name conflict with another company. That appears to have been at least partially resolved.

The Lakewood/East Dallas Advocate reports that Natural Grocers is taking over the Casa Linda Theater space, which went dark 10 years ago. Our own Scott K. Parks provides more details here.

This is the Boulder, Colorado-based, family-owned chain of uber-health-food grocers, selling only organic produce and as organic as it can be with everything else. The store also has a serious commitment to natural health and beauty products and supplements. Plus, it's BYOB - bring your own bags.

Check out the current Dallas locations at Preston-Forest and Coit-Campbell.

Photo by EVANS CAGLAGE/Staff Photographer

I ran into Bedford Bakery co-owner Stephan Steinbach last weekend at Eden's Organic Garden Center market day in Balch Springs, where he was selling a table-full of the new bakery's wares. I didn't take a pic because it was just a jumble of packages, but I'm stoked by what I found.

The bakery has been open just a few weeks. If you know anyone who lives around Bedford, tell 'em about it. You can tell the bakers are using good ingredients and baking from scratch. They will have a few stollens Christmas Eve and will be open regular hours, 7 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Photo courtesy of www.bedfordbakery.com

It's late, late, late to be getting tamales, but the Dallas News website revived my story from last year to give you a few leads.

It's not too late to go to Shed No. 2 at the Dallas Farmers Market to pick up a few dozen at La Popular Tamale House's outpost there. They'll be open till 5 p.m. today and till 3 p.m. on Christmas Eve.

Folks who commented on the story also recommended these spots:

"Dallas Tortilla & Tamale Factory in Old Town. Lewisville..." - jcl2634

"Braum's has in their frozen grocery section pretty decent cheap tamales for $3.99 a dozen - pork or beef." - Just2BeMe

"You have to try Dallas Tortillas tamales their the BEST!" - birdy1724

Dallas Tortilla and Dallas Tortilla & Tamale Company are the same spot - with two websites.

Photo by EVANS CAGLAGE/Staff Photographer

In case you missed yesterday's GuideSunday, it includes a look at Duo: All Things Culinary, the new collaborative project of Tracy Rathbun and Lynae Fearing just two doors down from their Shinsei restaurant. It's a party space. It's a retail store. Everything is for sale. Check out the whole story here.

Photo courtesy of Duo

The Florida freeze has put the hurt on several staple veggies, including yellow and zucchini squash and green beans. When you can still find these in the store, the prices are going to be higher.

The same goes for cucumbers, corn and bell peppers.

But wait. This affects the next crop cycle, too. The freezing temperatures two nights in a row also knocked off blossoms, meaning more shortages five to six weeks out.

Dallas Morning News file photo

I made a memorable road trip last year to Rise No.1 owner Hedda Gioia Dowd's East Texas farm. Eggs were collected; hay was cut to line roasting pans; and Dowd, along with Rise executive chef Cherif Brahmi, slow-cooked a daylong feast - all photographed by FD Luxe contributor Courtney Perry - for a September food feature.

Turns out more was cooking than duck that day. Dowd loved Perry's photos so much she tapped her to shoot a new cookbook. Rise to the Occasion: A French Food Experience debuts this month in Dallas.

Fans of Dowd's and Brahmi's celebrated Inwood Village soufflé bistro will find plenty of advice on creating their own airy egg masterpieces and home-style French fare. The nearly 200-page book brims with recipes, illustrations, photos and family stories, tips on entertaining and Dowd's slow-food philosophy. Writer Celine Chick (hubby Donald Chick named Park restaurant's back bar after her) weaves it all together.

Adding to the sizzle: You'll recognize some famous faces at Dowd's table, including a certain former U.S. president and first lady.

Rise to the Occasion: A French Food Experience by Hedda Gioia Dowd, Cherif Brahmi and Celine Chick (Pelican Publishing, $35), available at Rise restaurant and major booksellers

Here's something to nibble on for the locavores on your holiday shopping list.

The December issue of FD Luxe has a gift guide for foodies. Check out this sampler platter of Texan finds.

Shown: Oatmeal-Cranberry-Walnut Cookies from Kessler Cookie Company

Feel like enjoying one of the world's most distinguished champagnes, but with a little less bite on your wallet? Try a half bottle. Pogo's Wine & Spirits has half bottles of non-vintage Krug Grand Cuvee which, Krug notes, is the champagne most representative of the big, bold house style, for $59.99. The price is good through Dec. 20 or when supplies run out.