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July 2010
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New review: Pyramid Restaurant and Bar Coming to N-M Xmas catalog: lobster shooters kit Update: Cedars Social at South Side expects August debut How grows your garden up on the roof? School lunches: really so bad? Nodding Donkey will open in Uptown before Texas-OU weekend, not changing name Back by popular demand: Wackym's cherry-lemonade cookies Categories
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When Teiichi Sakurai delivered a bowl of oden to the table, I almost got choked up. A wintertime specialty in Japan, oden is a mixture of fish cake, fried tofu, daikon and other texture-specific nibbles cut into geometric forms, bobbing in dashi broth so hot the fragrant steam warms your innards before the first sip. I have a particular affection for oden, which was introduced to me by John Kessler of the Atlanta Journal-Constitution, one of my best buds and most admired food writer colleagues. It felt very full circle, to be savoring a well-made oden at Tei An, one of my favorite restaurants in Dallas, before heading back to the city where I first learned about the dish. Does it feel like overkill, that I named Tei An the best new restaurant of 2008 and still went there for my final meal in Dallas? I couldn't help myself, and I wasn't disappointed. I ordered an omakase meal and was treated to several specials I'd not before encountered: braised beef tongue so tender it could have been palmed off as pot roast; flounder and scallops sauced with a crazy, delicious orange paste distilled from uni and jellyfish; a finale bowl of soba served with a tubular piece of fish cake that was said to be a favorite meal of samurais centuries ago. If these kinds of oddities sound too far out for you, order Tei An's buckwheat risotto - a big ol' plate of comfort I discovered a few weeks back. But I can't say it enough: Go support this amazing restaurant. It's one of the best examples of culinary tradition meeting imagination that I've ever encountered. It's been a satiating few last weeks in Dallas: I hit York Street more than once, drank beautiful wines at Dali on New Year's Eve, introduced good friends to Yutaka and, on a frazzled night after packing, found succor in my new favorite pie at Olivella's - the Snow White pizza (ricotta, mozzarella, oregano, garlic) made sanguine with red sauce. I felt lucky to have the chance to put my regimented schedule as a critic aside and simply chow through my beloved spots. In spending my own money at these places, it also felt like my way of saying thanks to the restaurant community of Dallas, which surprised and inspired me with its energy and multiplicity. I carry a pride about North Texas' dining scene now. I failed to convince many of its chefs to loosen their grips on the truffle oil bottle, but I'm beyond thrilled that the city as a whole is enjoying finer cheeses: Please continue to help Molto Formaggio and Scardello thrive. And so, goodbye for now, Dallas. One never knows what the future brings. I can't wait to come visit in the spring or summer to try the newest crop of restaurants ... and taste what sort of seasonal warm weather dishes Tei An will be serving. Thank you for your eyes and opinions and words these past two years, and look me up soon at atlantamagazine.com. Archived Comments |
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It always used to amuse me when people would post comments about Bill being "lazy." There has not been a more energetic and fervent devotee of restaurants and critical food writing in this city for perhaps decades. Raise the bar, he did.
Personally, I put him in the same category as Liz Logan (you have to get on board the way-back machine to remember that one) and Michael Bauer, who wrote at the Times Herald and went on to build a food-wine reporting empire at the San Francisco Chronicle. And not to forget, outside the daily newspaper beat, Mark Stuertz, who recently left the Observer: Talk about a great duel of the pens. It was fun while it lasted.
I will certainly miss your writing. Your passion is evident and I've learned a good bit from you.
I, too will miss your valuable and well written critiques. I think you have re-set the bar for food critics in Dallas. Someone is going to have a very hard time filling your shoes.
Wishing you the very best this new year. Atlantan's should consider themselves very fortunate to be getting you.
I think of Bill as the culinary love-child of Liz Logan and Michael Bauer. Happy Trails!
Bill:
We are going to miss you. Great writing and a great pallet. Thank you for classing this joint up for a while.
You taught me a lot about food even though I am not a foodie. Thank you!
David, he taught me a lot about food even though I AM a foodie.
Wow, thanks y'all. I take your kind words east with me ...
Look, he said ya'll.
I sure am going to miss you, Bill!!!
best of luck to you Bill, I enjoyed your writing and it was a pleasure to meet you.
c'mon,Bill,how about a picture now that it doesn't matter? Margie said you were cute.
Loved your smart reviews! Sorry you're leaving, but all the best in Atlanta, they're lucky to have you.
Why are you leaving?!!!! You are the best food writer the News has had in the last 20 years (at least)! What a loss for Dallas. Best of luck in your new gig.
Say it isn't so. Bill Addison's writing talent is amazing and I've never enjoyed the Guide more since he's been the food critic. What a loss!
What a surprise, Bill. It seems like you just got here. We'll all miss your professionalism and thoroughness.
Good Luck!
Peter D.
Dallas loses an exceptional culinary voice. Darn, now I'll have to move to Atlanta to catch all that wonderful writing and gustatory insight.
Ok, since that won't happen. I'll have to submit my subscription for a new magazine. Best of luck Bill, enjoy Atlanta.
Hasta la bye-bye,
Deno