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Fine dining is the next topic for our Best in DFW series -- but fine dining is a mighty broad category. After much deliberation, we decided to use the opportunity to highlight chefs in upscale/special occasion restaurants that we think are doing some of the best work in the area.
Turns out, when we really thought it through, there were quite of few of them: We've got high-end dining covered around here. It was difficult to whittle down this list, so we simply made it longer than usual. Important note: We left out high-end steakhouses and Italian restaurants from this round, since we've covered those in other topics.
Your turn. Tell us where you go for a local special occasion meal, and/or which upscale chef you think turns out the most memorable meals. Post a comment in the area below, or email us at dining@dallasnews.com. We'll publish some of these comments in a print version, which will appear in a future issue of Guide.
Click to see our favorites.
Abacus
After a recent overhaul of the entire restaurant, including a sharp redo of the bar and an augmentation of the wine program, Kent Rathbun's flagship showcase is more of a draw than ever. It impresses continually that the restaurant can create a five-star dining experience (definably New American cuisine with some global-minded touches) in an atmosphere where you feel as comfortable decked out as you do in jeans (albeit designer ones).
Aurora
Aurora has been a steadfast showcase for the highest expression of longtime Dallas chef Avner Samuel's talent since 2003. Earlier in the year, Mr. Samuel committed to serving more organic and locally grown ingredients on his menu. But with signatures like the potato chiboust with osetra caviar and green apple sorbet still available, it's clear he hasn't strayed too far from his heady, Francophile cooking style.
Bijoux
The clientele at Bijoux often wear "special occasion" on their well-tailored sleeves. Chef-owner Scott Gottlich matches the formal atmosphere in this jewel box of a restaurant with seasonally revolving multi-course menus. Two knock-out dishes from a meal in late spring: Blushing slices of Long Island duck breast garnished with foie gras fried rice and a fried quail egg, and halibut made luxurious with a surprisingly elegant eggplant puree and fresh baby artichokes.
Charlie Palmer at the Joule
Scott Romano, the on-site executive chef, reflects the aesthetic of the namesake chef and owner by offering a New American menu (with hints of European and Asian influences) that volleys confidently between tradition and innovation. Love the salumi plate and the homemade pasta. Brandan Kelley ably took the reigns of the wine program after the departure of master sommelier Drew Hendricks.
Craft
New chef de cuisine Anthony Zappola stepped into the chef clogs of Kevin Maxey (who left to open the Atlanta outpost of Craft) seamlessly: The farm-to-table philosophy prescribed by chef-owner Tom Colicchio is carried out as subtly and soulfully as ever. Shout-out to pastry chef Shannon Swindle, who makes perhaps the finest seasonally inspired desserts in the city.
Fearing's
Been to Fearing's lately? It's as frenetic as it was the day it opened a little over a year ago. That's the magnetism of Dean Fearing, who works the varied, gorgeous rooms of his restaurant tirelessly and oversees the kitchen crew who create dishes that are a little bit Southwestern, a little bit fusion and have a whole lot of personality. A recent check-in meal included an admirably restrained wild striped bass with crab succotash. Happy to see the butterscotch pudding marvel remains on the dessert list.
French Room
As executive chef of the Adolphus hotel's venerable dining room, Jason Weaver may be the lowest-profile high-end chef in Dallas. You never hear much about him, but he and his staff quietly prove themselves as provocateurs with their graceful, occasionally daring New American cuisine. (If you're new to this restaurant, the French went out of the French Room some time ago.) For the uninhibited, Mr. Weaver recently introduced a fourteen-course Grand Tasting blowout.
Lanny's
Lanny Lancarte II, a member of the clan that owns legendary Joe T. Garcia's, has a seductive cooking style that is tricky to categorize: Think of it as energetic New American technique crossed with the cuisine of Mexico's upper cultural echelons. Or don't think much at all, just simply enjoy his individualistic food that is absolutely worth the drive to Fort Worth. If the foie gras chile relleno or the sea bass with homemade angel hair are on the menu, consider yourself blessed.
Lola
Just from glancing through his ever-changing menu, you can tell that executive chef David Uygur is the kind of cook who still really loves food. He cures his own meats, with glorious results. He takes chances, though his dishes never come off strange or overly experimental. And, given the quality and the obvious attention to detail, Lola still feels like a bargain. (And if you like quiet, romantic restaurants, this is your place.) Owner Van Roberts cultivates one of the most exciting and stunningly affordable wine lists in town.
Mansion
A lobe of foie gras impaled by a vanilla bean, the tiny black seeds spilling lavishly across the plate. Alaskan king crab in a duo of butter sauces that are not, remarkably, overpowering rich. Salads made from ingredients from a newly planted on-site garden. John Tesar took over the Mansion's fabled kitchen and has made it his own. The main dining room is an appropriate introduction to his cooking, but if you really want to sample the measure of his powers, splurge on the prix-fixe-oriented Chef's Room, or the Chef's Table, where Mr. Tesar personalizes your fantasy meal.
Mercury
After an uneven experience last year, a recent dinner at The Mercury revealed the heart of executive chef Chris Ward's culinary sensibility. The man is a classicist who can take trendy ingredients (such as pork belly) and ethnic seasonings (like Moroccan preserved lemon and spices on a lamb shank) and treat them in a way that feels at once fresh and comforting. He and his staff also make a mean lobster soufflé, and the sensuality of the signature pearl couscous carbonara never grows stale.
Nana
Anthony Bombaci has a boundary-pushing culinary perspective that enriches our dining scene. You don't expect fillips of molecular gastronomy while eating in Nana's staid dining room atop the Hilton Anatole, but he pulls it off with playful whimsies like tuna tartare with wasabi pea "gravel" and lamb scented with "liquid licorice." Don't worry, there's plenty for conservative palates, too. General Manager Mark LaRocca leads a staff offering some of the most polished service in town.
Stephan Pyles
Stephan Pyles, a deserving giant in our culinary scene, has repeatedly proved himself to be a chef who combines a sense of place with a feeling for the current culinary pulse. These days, that means silky, Peruvian-inspired ceviches; banana empanada with spit-roasted pig and cardamom; and whole fish fleetingly perfumed with vanilla. The bone-in cowboy rib eye and the Heaven and Hell cake will never leave the menu, nor should they. Newly installed executive chef Tim Byres has fine-tuned the kitchen admirably.
York Street
If I could have but one wish come true for the Dallas dining scene, it would be to have more restaurants helmed by chefs with aesthetic values similar to Sharon Hage. Less flash, more inspired simplicity. Her intelligent but light-handed way with salads, her unapologetic use of unusual meats, her devotion to seasonal and local ingredients: Go and taste for yourself why Ms. Hage is almost spoken of with near-universal reverence in this town.
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While not really upscale, I always feel like I've been fine dining after eating at Teppo or TeiTei.
Who could forget Chef Tim Love from Lonesome Dove Bistro in Fort Worth Stockyard. After all, he won the battle in Iron Chef
The list seems too long. Couldn't you at least exclude the restaurants that have only earned three stars for food in recent reviews? Or make it an even shorter list by knocking out any restaurant that hasn't received five stars for food?
Where's Local? Tracy Miller's menu is sublime, and the restaurant is a candlelit, minimalist haven. Memories of a decadently-tender lambshank will not be soon forgotten. Definitely one of my favorite spots in Dallas.
I agree with many of these selections, but Dean Fearing is not putting out anything nearly worthy of "fine dining" status at this namesake restaurant. He's a good guy, and it's a fun place but the food cannot touch places like Abacus or Bijoux.
Hands down..."The" fine dining establishment in Dallas is The French Room. For food, wine list, service and atmosphere it can't be beat. I love some of the other restaurants on the list but after paying the tab at a lot of those places I quite often think..."Hmm, I could've paid that at the French Room and had a flawless experience."
Mercury used to be my very favorite restaurant. Unfortunately, I've had such absymal recent experiences there, I vowed to never go back. The service was truly lacking, the portions were cut to appetizer size and the prices were exorbitant. I would definitely take it off this list (or any others!) On the other hand, Abacus is truly a unique pleasure and I would highly recommend it to anyone.
John Tesar is a genius. Every meal at the Mansion has been superb. Can't wait for my meal at the Chef's Table.
Mike Smith at Restaurant 2900 in Uptown is by far, my favorite.
Jason Weaver/The French Room - absolutely THE BEST. We've tried the old timers and newcomers on this list, but none can compare to the quality of The French Room's menu, outstanding wines, always impeccable service, and classic atmosphere.
When we are looking for a special dining experience we always head to Mirabelle. The food and service are consistently stellar.
I agree with Jenny... Where is LOCAL? LOCAL should definitely be on this list. As one of THE most consistent, sophisticated, beautiful AND delicious places in town. The food is always delightful and divine, and the staff is always so gracious. Editors who compiled this list ought to be embarrassed.
ABACUS is a circus and a spectacle. And I'm not sure who K.R. thinks he is. Larger-than-larger-than-life, for certain.
CHARLIE PALMER: too expensive. Too old. Too stiff. Bad service. Great sommelier. Gross fish. Corporate blandness. TIRED ALREADY.
Begging for "less flash and more inspired simplicity" - I think LOCAL and TEPPO equally fit the bill and, unfortunately, were left off this poorly researched list. Thanks to the others for pointing this out.
I suppose that AURORA will make any 'top' list after what happened early this year with the gimmicked re-review. God forbid there's any more huffing and puffing coming out from atop the Oak Lawn strip center in which lies a restaurant with a real menu-identity crisis. (READ RICHARD OLNEY!)
While I am not normally the person to respond to these things, a few worked up responses encouraged me to add my own sensibilities. I do agree that you didn't do your homework otherwise surely one of your spot-checkers would have said - don't forget LOCAL! If you need a reminder on what an excquisite meal in a heavenly setting tastes and feels like, perhaps you should visit so your research can be presented in a more accurate manner. In early August, I had one of my most memorable foie gras experiences: Chef Miller served hers with fresh local figs bathed in a madeira vanilla bean syrup served along-side their house-made Texas toast. It left me speechless. My wife enjoyed the peach marsala glazed Berkshire pork chop. It was packed with flavor and so moist. We ended her birthday meal with the Texas peach and almond bread pudding with a scoop of watermelon sorbet on the side. I would really hate to think that readers of this list would miss out on an opportunity that we had because your list failed to give credit to this most-special and unique restaurant in Dallas.
I'm with the LOCAL lovers but I while I think the food there is excellent, I don't consider it special occasion by any means. It's wonderful - but it's in Deep Ellum which doesn't feel special or fine dining-like and the patrons are often dressed down. Again, I LOVE the food there but is it really fine dining?
I feel the same way about Fearing's. Good food, racy social scene but it's loud and frenetic with waiters running around and there is A LOT of Tommy Bahama shirts going on there. That's definitely not fine dining unless you're, well, in the Bahamas.
Iteresting thoughts .. so what defines fine dining? Is it the dress of the other patrons, the location of the restaurant, the setting inside (well maybe) or is it the quality of food, service, unique offerings and above all(my bias)are the bove delivered with consistency?
Just had the tasting menu at LOCAL and it was fabulous! I'll also cast a vote for York Street and Hotel St. Germain.
Since when does the neighborhood a restaurant resides in determine whether or not the quality of what goes on inside is "fine" or "casual"? Does that then mean that all restaurants in HP Village are thus "fine dining" simply because of the address they possess? Similarly, the attire worn by guests in a restaurant does not fundamentally change the service or food quality or philosophy/approach of the chef. People in this city will dress as low or high as they want, and it is on these extreme ends of the spectrum that many of them stay. Walk in to the Porch and you might see someone dripping in diamonds and wearing the latest handbag, shoes, and accessory. Does that guest then render the Porch "fine dining" by her mere presence, and the multitudes there like her? Clearly, the answer is no. Likewise, just because someone is enjoying "fine food" wearing something more dressed down in a less popular neighborhood doesn't mean that the quality of the restaurant then goes down a notch, to be deemed casual dining.
The problem with this city is that there has never been a middle ground. It's difficult for people to get their head around.
Dine at any restaurant in Manhattan, with the exception of a Keller-owned spot -- Spotted Pig, Gramercy Tavern, Little Owl, Blue Hill, Union Square Cafe, Craft, Babbo -- and the quality of the food and service is ALONE what vouches for the fineness of the restaurant. Guest attire and/or neighborhood have ZERO bearing on the determination of whether a place is fine. Food quality, chef, service, style. Interior design more than neighborhood plays a role (here I'm thinking of the Spotted Pig. Pubbish, gritty atmosphere, inspired and casual but also FINE food.) Some of the best restaurants (right now I'm thinking Allen & Delancey) in Manhattan are in gritty but changing neighborhoods, the same phrase I would apply to Dallas' own Deep Ellum.
Just some food for thought......
All great points. In fact, last year the Mansion changed its dress code so that jackets and ties are not required and diners can wear blue jeans. So does that mean it's no longer fine dining? Hardly. It's five star dining but with a much more fun and approachable setting. And it doesn't cost an arm and a leg to eat there. So again, Alexis and David bring up good points: what constitutes fine dining? To me, it's first and foremost consistently excellent food, attentive but unobtrusive service, beautiful setting, and ambience. I do not think that open kitchens, loud, busy, frenetic restaurants are fine dining. And, no, just because a restaurant is in Highland Park Village doesn't make it fine dining. Have you been to Cafe Pacific? Cute restaurant but crowded, loud, mediocre food, kind of EXclusive and clubby. No thanks.
dinner at suze is a favorite because the food is excellent and small dining room is intimate...service always informative and personal
Food at Seabreeze used to be great. What happend to the original Chef? He was the charm of the place!
Where is Richard Chamberlain? Chamberlain has won so many awards, he is on television and the Chop House in Addison is just wonderful. No stiff just great food and a wonderful price. Not in the mood for steak just travel a little down the road to the Fish House. If you have not been to one of these fine establishments, go in and be a guest for life.
York Street hands down is the best restaurant in Dallas for food.If you are looking for a ritzy dining room with valet parking and want to be a socialite,don't go here.This place is all about the food,foodies from all over the US flock to this restaurant and with good reason,the chef/owner has been nominated for the James Beard Award for 4 consecutive years,that doesn't happen by accident.Truly the best chef in Dallas,if you haven't been,you need to go.York Street is so underrated by locals it's unbelievable.Out of towners flock to this place,I guess Dallas people just want to be seen at the swanky places and eat steak and potatoes.
Second the vote for French Room, this is truly the special occasion restuarant. Abacus, is absolutely the best combination of creative, finely prepared cuisine and service.
Also, make York Street, and our hidden pleasure is 2900 Thomas, it is truly a unique experience.
The Mansion is still where I'd go for a special occasion and I'd select the Chefs Room there rather than the Restaurant - great for everyday. I've only eaten once in the Chefs Room but the quality of the food and the service was beyond anything else I've experienced in Dallas. And to commemorate the dinner when we left, we were presented with a bag of edible goodies plus a copy of the menu we'd chosen that night. Pricey but perfect.
Agree with the Bijoux choice completely. Out of all the places i've had the opportunity to dine in the last year (Fearings, Craft, Abacus, Mansion, Ounce, York Street..just to name a few) my most memorable experience was at Bijoux. From the seamless service down to the visit from Scott Gottlich to our table, everything was perfection.
I have dined at York Street and am still having a hard time finding it as perfect and awe-inducing as Frank describes it. Let me preface by also stating that I have dined at some incredible restaurants (non-locally) which also celebrate the farm-to-table philosophy, but that DO NOT sacrifice ambience, style, pleasure, and taste the way I feel those characteristics are sometimes lacking at York Street.
Hear me out: I don't want a scene. I don't want loud music or gyrating hips. I DO want wonderful, ethically conscious, local and sustainable food that is in season and fresh and diverse and I want to be comfortable eating it, feeling relaxed. However, I also want this food to be DELICIOUS. James Beard recognition or not, mecca for out of towners or not, this IN-TOWNER has left York Street on a few occasions scratching her head, thinking: "Was that delicious? Did I want to just eat every morsel on my plate? Was I comfortable in the setting? Did I feel that was a night well spent? And, most importantly, was the food as flavorful and divine as the well-sourced ingredients suggest it ought to be?"
I have come up with a "No," unfortunately, to many of those questions following my trips to York Street. Add a bad service experience in there one time, no less on a birthday, and I become one very educated in-towner whose reluctance to bestow upon it such reverence is deservedly firm.
How many other people have left with the same reaction I have? Or, I wonder, how many guests have left York Street vouching that their experience was REVELATORY and EXCEPTIONAL simply because the collective belief follows that: 'At York Street you ought to have an eye-opening and divine experience because everyone says you will, and if you don't - than, well, you just may not be as 'foodie' or 'food aware' as you think you are.'
We recently ate at the new "Mansion" and it was good but not steller. We retreated into the bar for coffee to escape the noise of the fellow patrons. We later heard you should pay the extra money for the tasting room which is a five star experience. Aurora considers itself in its own world and we were not impressed on either visit. We had the 5 course tasting menu (over $300 for the 2 of us with one glass of wine each and tip) and we left hungry. (I guess that happens a lot for the waiter asked if we wanted to order an entree after we ate the 5 "courses." We were shocked.) The French Room is our long time favorite. We have always been impressed there! Nana, 2900 and the little known Mister G's (at the DFW Hyatt) are very good too. We are blessed to live in a big city with so many fine dining choices. Kudos to those that participate in Restaurant Week.
I completely agree that York Street has never been up to the hype it receives.
Take me to Bijoux or Abacus over it any day!
York Street represents simplicity without spin. I am in Italy and have just dined in a one star Michelin restaurant in the Maremma. To me York Street puts out food on a level with what we experience over here. Sharon doesn't have a p.r.machine, like some of the big chefs in Big D, but what she does is connect with those of us who seek simple, pure, fresh and when possible, local on a very basic level. She works from her kitchen with no bling, no Vegas, no hype.
Whenever we think about moving out of Dallas to a quieter part of the state, I think of not having great restaurants like this around me. I haven't even been to all the ones listed above and I'm very curious about Local, as well. To me, it's not just the food. It's the artful presentation. It's the personal touches. There's just nothing better than being pampered to death at a fine restaurant. It may well be impossible for me to name an absolute favorite. It depends on what we're celebrating; romance, good friends, an unexpected windfall... every celebration calls for a different kind of special meal. We're just lucky to have so many wonderful choices.
French Room. That is all.
I ate at the French Room for the first (and so far only) time in December to celebrate a 50th birthday. It was unlike any dining experience I've had in Dallas and look forward to going back to.
I had a conversation with someone about price points of various restaurants and whether they are "worth" going back. The French Room is the most expensive restaurant I've ever been to, yet I think it's worth the price and will go back again as soon as I can afford it. (In these uncertain times, I'm operating on a cash-only basis, which really affects how often/where I eat out.
You asked where we go for a local special occasion meal. To me, local means . . . where I live. I do not live in Dallas and I prefer to celebrate those special occasions close to home. For me, the perfect place to celebrate a special occasion is The Grotto - A Salerno Steakhouse in Highland Village. Chef Morris Salerno is a master at preparing fabulous meals, in a cozy atmosphere, with great service. We keep coming back!
I think that Chef Sharon Hage's sensitive and low key approach to local, seasonal, and immpecable eating is one of the best in Dallas. She constantly strives to offer the most delicious takes on interesting and seasonal produce that I have experienced. Her wine selections are crafted well and her staff always delivers. She has the total package!
to dm, didnt the grotto close? Anyway, having lived here for the last fifteen years Dallas has many great restaurants with many talented chefs. over the years there is only one chef who stands out more than all the others and that is Stephan Pyles. He alone has brought Dallas where it is today in fine dining. His restaurants are the best, past, present and future. I cant wait for more! We are fortunate to have such great restaurants in Dallas. We all have are favorite places but when i go out for a special occasion the first thought is Stephan Pyles. Everytime ive been there ive seen the chefs of all those restaurants above dining there. its obviously there choice too! cheers all
stephan pyles, dean fearing and kent rathbun have put dallas on the map as a dining destination.
I would never eat at Fearing's, he destroyed the menu at the Mansion.
I'm very happy to see Lola on this list. It's been a consistent and innovative restaurant for nearly a decade (a minor feat in and of itself). Every time I go there feels like a special occasion due to the constantly changing menu, nice prix-fix option, and stellar wine list. You can really tell that the owner is a fan of great wine from his carefully crafted list.
Kudos to Abacus and York St. for making the list as well. Abacus is a bit flamboyant, but the food backs up the buzz 100%. York St. is the polar opposite of Abacus, where the focus is on nothing but the food.
I'd love to see Local and Suze on the list too. But, as others have stated, I agree that they seem a bit more on the casual side.
What's in that picture? Fishing lures?
First let me agree with Clarissa's comments about defining fine dining. We have great restaurants in Dallas, but compare them with something like The Herbfarm in Woodinville, WA and then let's shorten our list.
For Dallas, Abacus has been my favorite for years for I've never been disappointed there. And yes, Kent (with help from brother Kevin) also won their Iron Chef competition. Hard to beat the Lobster Shooters.
What is the deal with Stephan Pyles? The food has been overly salty everytime I decide to give it another try. Blech!
You clearly picked restaurants with brand new, high end decors. Fine dining can be an ambiance as well. Fine dining is also defined by the level of service you get. Chamberlain's Steak & Chop House as well as Bob's on Mckinney should have made the list.