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August 2008

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Yo, Jules, bring back the white clam pizza
(and other Nonna tidbits)

6:15 PM Thu, Jul 17, 2008 | Permalink |
Bill Addison

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Nonna in Highland Park is one of the places that I happily frequent on my own off-duty dime. The sheer, crisp pizzas; the freshly made pastas and spare meat and fish dishes that revolve with the seasons; the sassy little Italian wine list ... I continue to be thankful that this restaurant opened.

But I've got a seasonal bone to pick with the chef, Mr. Julian (Jules) Barsotti.

Jules, I know you're trying to change up the game by making your clam pizza with summery tomato sauce. In theory, it sounds like an apt paean to hot weather produce. In reality, the acidic sauce drowns out the charm of the clams and breaks the overall spell of the pizza. I and other fans beseech you: Bring back the New Haven-inspired white version. It has year-round appeal.

In other Nonna news, folks sensitive to the mighty decibels created by diners enjoying their meals here with gusto (and who eventually resort to literal shouting to be heard) will soon get some relief. The restaurant is bringing in sound engineers to put panels on the ceiling that will knock down the operatic reverb.

This will happen between Sunday, July 27 and Sunday, August 3, when the restaurant (and its co-inhabitant, The Food Company caterers) will close for vacation. Meet you there after the 4th, hopefully tussling over who gets the last slice of white clam pizza.