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Sometimes at restaurants, you have to walk

9:33 AM Fri, Jul 04, 2008 |  | 
Kim Pierce   E-mail   News tips

It was the best of nights. It was the worst of nights. Thursday evening, the Sig-O and I went to check out a new restaurant, which shall remain nameless. I suppose the misspelling of "carpacio" should have been a clue that this might be another mediocre Italian.

But the deal-breaker was the wine list, with mark-ups of four times wholesale. This means the restaurant pays $20 for a bottle and sticks you for $90. Three times is more the rule in Texas, which is still scandalously high. Disgusted, we did something we rarely do: We walked.


We took refuge at the bar at Nonna's, the only seating available at that time of night. There, for a smidge over the price of that other bottle of wine, we had two appetizers, two entrees, dessert and a bottle of reasonably priced lambrusco plus the good company of bartender Tim.

The menu also had the imprint of Tom Spicer's excellent produce: the telltale reedy but vibrant arugula leaves with the arancini (fried risotto balls stuffed with ragu), the hen-in-the-woods on the mushroom pizza, the speckled butterbeans beneath the Italian sausages. 'Turns out Tim helps Tom make deliveries by day.

There are so many mediocre restaurants in this city, where cottony tomatoes and that pesky, ubiquitous "mesclun" mix abide. Why can't we come up with a critical mass of discriminating diners who demand a higher standard at more places, up and down the price scale?



Comments

Posted by Margie @ 10:02 AM Fri, Jul 04, 2008


I seriously think you should tell what restaurant this was. What if I make the same mistake and go there? I guess I could just look for the misspellings.

Sign me up for the critical mass!




Posted by women for empowerment @ 10:20 AM Fri, Jul 04, 2008


Why would you not name the restaurant unless you were not telling the truth.

If its the truth than its no liabillity on your part.

Withholding information only helps those doing wrong and hurts the innocent




Posted by Nathan E. Rodakirk @ 10:23 AM Fri, Jul 04, 2008


We do what you did; walk out and never look back

You'd think with a rash of italian places closing recently, that these newbies would look-around and clue-up.




Posted by Kim Pierce @ 10:50 AM Fri, Jul 04, 2008


I did not name the restaurant because I think it would be unfair. It is so new, the owners might still decide on their own to adjust the wine prices. We also did not stay and give them a fair shake, a chance to show that they are fabulous and worth it. We felt no obligation to stay, as we would have on a review visit, because we were on our own dime. This experience is a cautionary tale: caveat emptor, and, to restaurateurs, do not think such details will go unnoticed.




Posted by Margie @ 1:25 PM Fri, Jul 04, 2008


Gotcha. I can respect that.




Posted by J. Paul @ 3:35 PM Fri, Jul 04, 2008


I can respect you not naming the restaurant as well, assuming you let them know the reason(s) you walked. It's only fair to a new place. Heck, it's only fair to an old place for that matter. The problem won't be corrected if patrons don't inform the proprietor. Failure to do so is also an injustice to future diners.




Posted by Niko @ 4:10 PM Fri, Jul 04, 2008


Couldn't disagree more. This is part of the reason why no one respects the DMN anymore. There was a time when journalists worked there, not just bloggers worried about offending someone. If you are not going to say the name, then don't waste our time manufacturing "news"




Posted by richard @ 5:58 AM Sat, Jul 05, 2008


I respect your discretion- And you need to go back when the restaurant has had time to season and get its sea legs - In the meanwhile, I would like to note that I had dinner at Babbo in NYC two weeks ago, and food/wine at Nonna is very competitive.

Good resstaurants that are well thought out such as Nonna prosper in DFW. Weak restaurants, such as BLT fail. At the risk of being controversial in DFW, it is the survival of the most fit- evolution




Posted by foodczar @ 4:30 PM Sat, Jul 05, 2008


I agree with Richard. Sure, I would like to know the name of the restaurant, as would many others. However, natural selection will win out. There are now too many places without mediocre food and four-times markup. If the proprietors don't make the necessary adjustments, this place, whatever the name, will fold of its own accord.




Posted by Michael @ 5:49 PM Sat, Jul 05, 2008


Hmm, after having dinner at Bene-Bene the other night, I'd go as far as saying, "that's (probably) the restaurant".




Posted by Michael @ 5:50 PM Sat, Jul 05, 2008


Hmm, after having dinner at Bene-Bene the other night, I'd go as far as saying, "that's (probably) the restaurant".




Posted by Helena Basquet @ 11:11 AM Sun, Jul 06, 2008


@ Michael
I imagine the folks @ Bene Bene know how to spell carpaccio

That, and it was reviewed a few weeks ago ;)




Posted by SDavis @ 12:25 PM Mon, Jul 07, 2008


Here here! I don't care where it is, I just am glad there is someone with real food credentials that would do that. I used to be too timid to do it but now days I will leave in an instant if there is something I don't like. A jacked up wine list is one of those things. I also was in a new Italian place and left. I am not sure it was the same place but there were two issues. Slow service and a lousy and outrageously overpriced wine list. We just walked out. So take note all of you restaurants, we are sick of being raked over the coals on the wine list and we now know we can just leave.





Posted by catherine @ 1:28 PM Mon, Jul 07, 2008


Although it may not still be considered "new", I'd guess it was Villa-O based on my recent experience.




Posted by Soonervino @ 2:13 PM Mon, Jul 07, 2008


I carry a bias because I am in the wine business, and know what things actually cost, but the pricing of wine in Dallas restaurants (as a whole) is nothing short of scandalous. 3x markup, while standard, is outrageous. Many top restaurant cities in the US work on lower margin's and sell considerably more wine. The restaurateur claims overhead, but I gotta think the lease on a restaurant in SF has a more expensive lease, but better wine pricing. And guess what, people are drinking more wine. I would love to see the Dallas consumer protest this pricing practice more vocally and perhaps the restaurateur will adjust accordingly. Unless and until that happens, we as consumers cannot whine about wine pricing. And don't get me started on quality of food.




Posted by Billusa99 @ 2:38 PM Mon, Jul 07, 2008


Let's see now. Pescabar opened last Thursday. It's Italian. Lombardi is infamous for outrageous wine and drink markups. Nonna is close to Pescabar.

Sounds like Pescabar to me.




Posted by Michael Sills @ 2:40 PM Mon, Jul 07, 2008


A lot of interesting comments. I too find it ridiculous that better restaurants are marking wine up that much...worse when lesser quality places do so. In prior times you were paying for the aging of the inventory...that was expensive to do. Now with most restaurants keeping smaller inventories and/or allowing the wholesalers to do the storing and absorbing the cost there really is no excuse for those kind of markups. Charlie Palmer's has been charging 25% above retail (which is more than that for wholesale, admittedly)and It i do not feel as bad about paying absurd amounts for wine there. I will say that one of the ways restaurants are currently trying to deal with unbelievable increases in costs is to charge more for wine...especially for glasses. I also agree that most of us are too polite to walk from a restaurant that is overcharging or if the service is bad. We under-tip and don't go back but rarely make a real statement as to our displeasure. I think that it is great that you did that...i also agree that there is no need to name them yet as it was not an official review. Other diners will come to recognize the restaurant soon enough. I do wish that there were more good Italian restaurants in Dallas. I don't understand why it seems so hard to do it well here...you cant walk 10 feet in NYC without finding a good one. Is Mario Batali out there listening????




Posted by Oliver @ 3:41 PM Mon, Jul 07, 2008


I seriously would be surprised if it was Pescabar. I know it is too new to review but Lombardi normally does a great job and I would seriously doubt there would be mis-spellings on his menu.

On another note, walking out of a restaurant prior to ordering is totally acceptable. Good for you Kim. However, in response to Michael's comment above, I don't think that it would be fair to under tip a waiter due to your displeasure in the wine pricing. It's not their fault. Under tipping should only be reserved for poor service.




Posted by AS @ 5:48 PM Mon, Jul 07, 2008


OK, I would like to point out a two items about the cost of booze:

1) There is no sales tax on drinks/wine/beer served in a bar, but the house does have to send in 14% of the sales. With a 3 times mark-up (pretty standard in the biz), plus 14% tax, you are looking at almost 50% cost before you add in labor, rent, insurance, etc.

2) Many restaurants in Dallas are licensed as clubs in order to serve drinks. Clubs are prohibited from purchasing alcohol from wholesalers, and must purchase from a retailer with a special license. A recent (unscientific) price comparison I did with a friend who has a "wet" location shows that clubs pay anywhere from 11% - 35% higher for their wines.




Posted by PF @ 8:55 PM Mon, Jul 07, 2008


I've had dinner at Villa-O twice recently, and both times it was a hit with food. First visit service was satisfactory. On the second visit the service, by one of the hostesses who acted as server at the bar tables, was outstanding. Couldn't have been been better.




Posted by Dooner @ 4:14 AM Tue, Jul 08, 2008


I know it was not Pescabar because I checked the spelling of :carpaccio" on the menu Sunday night and they got it right, but that's about all they got right. It seemed like they were out of everything on the menu. It was embarrassing for our guests when the waiter extolled the virtues of items on the menu only to return to the table and report that they were out of the itemsm even desserts.

While I know opening weekends, especially holiday weekends, are a challenge for a new staff and restaurant, this isn't the first rodeo for the Lombardi operation.




Posted by Mare @ 10:13 AM Tue, Jul 08, 2008


Went to Pescabar on Sat: The place has potential. Knowing they have only been open since Weds, we went to check it out anyway - it was fine. They are already packing them in.

Carpaccio WAS spelled right, and the wine prices are very fair.




Posted by DFW Wine Lover @ 9:47 AM Thu, Jul 10, 2008


Actually, at Charlie Palmer, the markup on the wine is only $20-$35 up from what they charge in their retail wine shop...not the 25% posted previously..




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