EATS

Read Kim Harwell's latest column to get the dish on new venues, including the Hibashi Teppan Grill, Sushi and Bar and Naan Allen Korean Grill and Sushi Bar, and restaurants making changes, including Go Fish.

A reliable source tells me that La Paesana on Lovers Lane closed its doors last Saturday night. What is it about June 28th?

I can't believe we've missed Seabose in Carrollton in the two years it's been open. I can't believe my own sushi-gobbling son, who lives maybe a mile away, hasn't discovered it.

Then again, I can. The tiny, obscure store and takeout sushi bar thrives on support from Japanese locals. It's situated in a neighborhood where a lot of Japanese live, and the community's Japanese newspaper is all over it. At least, that's what the sushi chef told me.

But I still would have expected word-of-mouth to gallop amongst Dallas foodies ever since Sidedish and the hounds of chow put the word out.

Let me whet your appetite with the spider roll: The freshest, crunchiest, most delicate soft-shell crab was cradled in perfect sushi rice (sticky but not stuck together) and secured by ocean-fresh nori drizzled with a fleetingly sweet, soy-ish glaze. Every mouthful was complete, without the soy-wasabi dipping sauce Americans mix reflexively at sushi bars. Price: $4.99.

The Killis Melton Ice Cream Crank-Off is usually in August, but not this year. It's scheduled to be part of the fun at McKinney's Red, White and Boom fest.

Tastings at the always-creative showdown will start at noon Saturday (July 5) in front of the McKinney Avenue Performing Arts Center. They're asking for donations of at least $3 for a sample cup--proceeds will go to the McKinney Education Foundation. Awards will be presented at 1 p.m.

If you want to enter, the release says, "Pre-registration is not required, and contestants should arrive by 10 a.m. with an ice cream freezer and pre-mixed ingredients. Salt and ice will be furnished by Clyde's on the Square."

I'm a total lemon freak, with lemon juice being one of my major seasoning groups (um, yum, sour). So this summer's prices, which by some estimates have risen 155 percent over what we paid a year ago, have definitely given me sticker shock.

But give them up? No way. Only last night, I forked over five bucks for a bag of six large lemons at Tom Thumb, where individual ones were 99 cents each. (I'm in the TT zone: No matter which direction I drive from home, the first store I hit is a Tom Thumb.)

But get this: I had occasion to shop at a Wal-Mart Supercenter today, and there were my precious golden orbs for 35 cents a piece. Yes, they were the small ones, but who cares? A 5-year-old could do the math on this deal.

Liz Baron of Blue Mesa Grill reports that Hardie's, a produce wholesaler, is stepping up to help the restaurant make a connection with local farmers. Thus the four types of corn used during the festival will come from growers in Emery and Canton. Find out more here, including recipes.

Alberto Lombardi is set to open Pescabar in the West Village for dinner tonight. The restaurant is described as an "Italian seafood and crudo bar." The menu will focus on "fresh fish and seafood flown in daily from Hawaii, San Francisco, New York and Washington State."

The press release says: "The highlight of the menu at Pescabar will be a Crudo Sense Frontiere (Italian for 'raw bar without borders') featuring several types of oysters, scallops, arctic char, Dungeness crab, salmon, tuna and snapper plus incredible seafood Carpaccio and Pescabar's unique version of Italian sashimi.

"The full menu will offer pastas with seafood, baked oysters, clams, mussels, two or three choices of ceviche, risotto, chicken and steak. The pastry chef is also planning an exquisite dessert menu offering numerous Italian specialties."

Mr. Lombardi says, "The specialty of the house will be a Piatto al Frutti Di Mare containing crab, oysters, shrimp, ceviche and lobster."

Pescabar will serve lunch and dinner seven days a week, with a seafood brunch on Saturdays and Sundays.

Pescabar in The West Village, 3699 McKinney Avenue, #106; 214-522-3888.

First, Dallas got a Wine Therapist. Now, shoppers have a Chocolate Apothecary, which opened yesterday.

Besides packaged chocolate, truffles and gelato, the new Highland Village store has a drinking chocolate bar serving nine varieties that are sourced worldwide, according to owner Kellie Long.

That's in addition to espresso, coffee drinks and chocolate cake, with WiFi available in the seating area. The store also will offer chocolate classes, with the first one scheduled July 17.

Based in Spokane, Wash., Chocolate Apothecary is the brainchild of a pharmacy student who found solace in chocolate after a chemistry test.

Chocolate Apothecary, 1401 Shoal Creek in Highland Village (near Shoe Pavillion in the Shops at Highland Village); 214-770-5407

Hours: 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Friday and Saturday, noon to 5 p.m. Sunday

Kim Pierce