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The Scoop on the Cheese Shops (Yes, Plural!)

7:50 PM Thu, Jun 19, 2008 |  | 
Bill Addison    E-mail  |  News tips

cheeseshop.jpgOK, this morning? No sign of cheese shops in Dallas. Tonight? We find that there are THREE in the works. Dallas, it's time to fall in love with artisan cheese and support these places.

Photo: Molto Formaggio #1, in progress.

First things first: Just got off the phone with Michael Perlmeter, one of the partners in Molto Formaggio, the cheese shop opening on the northeast corner of Preston and Royal that Kim Pierce blogged about a few posts down.

Here's the back story on Molto Formaggio: Perlmeter is a retired CFA who's been spending time in Italy falling evermore in love with food, particularly cheese. He and his wife had some other Dallasites visiting them in Florence, and a bunch of them collectively decided they should open a cheese shop back home.

It took a while for a wine-induced fantasy to become reality, but after nine months of planning (and master cheese classes in New York with Max McCalman, my cheese hero), Molto looks to be opening by the 7th of July. Christy Martinez (a former Belo employee, Perlmeter tells me) will be in charge of running the retail space.

And from the sound of things, these folks plan to do things right. First of all, they'll have a large selection of artisan cheeses, many of which are not carried anywhere else in the area. The starting lineup will be about 150, expanding to 300 by the holidays.

They will slice the cheese to order. This is so important, because the integrity of high-quality cheese is compromised when they're pre-cut and smothered in plastic wrap. I'm sorry to say this is how most grocery stores around here sell their cheese.

They'll have other fun stuff: An olive bar, as well as an olive oil bar featuring oils from Spain and Sicily; charcuterie and pâtés; and Italian salamis and chocolates.

Oh, and get this: Paula Lambert will be making the super-creamy-style burrata for these guys on the weekend.

Next surprise: They're opening a second cheese shop in Highland Park Village in September. The store will be in the space recently vacated by Harold's clothing store.

As if this isn't enough, in a cheese frenzy, both Kim Pierce and Shannon Sutlief uncovered yet ANOTHER cheese shop opening in Dallas: This one is called Scardello Cheese, and it is apparently opening at the corner of Lemmon Ave. and Oak Lawn Ave. I'll be contacting its owner shortly to get the details.

From zero to 60 on the cheese front. I lived in Atlanta when it went through its cheese craze. If this is anything like that, we're in for a great time, y'all. Restaurants start offering dazzling cheese plates and cheese carts. Cheese tastings (with wine or beer) proliferate. The stores compete to offer unique, rapturous products.

Sorry to geek out, but for a cheese head like me, who's been sorely missing the culture of independent cheese shops, this is literally a dream come true. I'm leaving the office a happy man today.



Comments

Sweet, maybe I can finally duplicate that Bar Crudo lobster salad now.


I gotta give the shout-out to Richard Silverston, who tipped me off to info leading to the Formaggio folks (even as Bill was already on the scent) and gave me the lead on Scardello. Richard, along with wife Karen, is a committed cheesehead and Slow Foodie. The couple was instrumental in bringing the documentary "The Cheese Nun" to Dallas several years ago.


I sampled several fine cheeses at Molto on Saturday, and was thrilled. This is an outstanding addition to Dallas's food scene. Welcome!







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