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July 2008
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Best in DFW: Who makes your favorite burger? Yo, Jules, bring back the white clam pizza Sharpen your knives at Flavors From Afar Parigi: going local with green water Greg Harrington swells ranks of Texas' master sommeliers - at least temporarily Snack attack -- what's your position on 100-calorie packs? Gina Campisi: "Stark Raving Chef" Patrick Stark gone from Fedora Categories
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Eric Bordelet makes sparkling cider like it's fine Champagne. He served as the sommelier at the three-star Paris restaurant L'Arpège, so he knows wine. He returned to his family's farm in the Loire Valley of France -- with 49 acres of orchards growing 120 types of apples and 30 types of pears -- determined to make cider with elegant, bright fruit and small bubbles with a fine mousse, or foam, common with sparkling wines. For the apple cider, he uses, at most, 15 types of apples, almost all heirloom varieties with colors ranging from black-purple to red brown. None of the fruit is picked. He waits until it is ripe enough to drop to the ground. The fruit is chopped and macerated with the skins, in the manner of a red wine. The result of this attention to detail is evident in each of these sparkling ciders. The Sidre Doux ($17.99) is made of apples with spicy spearmint aromas and flavors. It's slightly sweet, but well-balanced; try it with a blue cheese. The Poiré Authentique ($17.99) is slightly sweet with pristine pear flavors vitalized by decisive acidity. Pair it with a roasted pork tenderloin. The Poiré Granit ($27.99), made with pears from older trees is Bordelet's top-of-the-line cider. It has the gravitas of a Champagne, with complex pear flavors and hints of beeswax in an elegant structure. Serve as an aperitif. Available at Central Market stores. Rebecca Murphy |
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