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July 2009
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Does that sound like heresy? Going to K.C. for three days and indulging in no steaks and no barbecue... what sacrilege! But that's what my husband and I just did. Fact is, we couldn't look at prime beef or BBQ because we'd just spent the previous weekend chowing down on same in the Hill Country, on a Roadfood.com "eating tour" with food writers Jane and Michael Stern. [More on this in a future issue of Taste.] We were pretty well BBQ'ed out, even a week later. So in K.C., we skipped the usual stops and didn't try out classic 'cue at Gates or strip steaks at the venerable Golden Ox. We'd already been to Arthur Bryant's and Jess & Jim's on a previous K.C. visit, so we tried a few places that were new to us. We didn't necessarily seek out the hottest, highest-priced places to eat, but we had good meals anyhow. Our first dinner out, on Saturday, was at Lidia's Italy, PBS cooking-show maven Lidia Bastianich's K.C. outpost of rustic Italian. We particularly loved the frico ($9.95), described as "a specialty of the Friuli region...an envelope of golden-brown, crisp Montasio cheese with potato, leek, onion and the filling of your choice." We chose the Luganega sausage and Swiss chard filling, and it was delicious. Monday night, we headed to the Uptown Theater on Broadway for a concert with Glen Hansard and Marketa Irglova (whose "Falling Slowly" won Best Original Song at the Oscars this year). It was general-admission and we wanted to be in line by 6:30, so we had a very early dinner at 4:30 at the Bristol Seafood Grill, a relatively new spot in K.C.'s burgeoning Power & Light District. Steve had halibut, I had trout, and everything was good -- but the starters of jumbo lump crab cakes (and the Bristol's signature drop biscuits with butter) were our favorite parts of the meal. We had lunch Tuesday at Aixois, a French bistro in the Brookside neighborhood south of Country Club Plaza. Steve's ruby-red trout and my seafood crepes were both outstanding, and my chilled avocado-cucumber soup was a winner, too. We also had Sunday brunch at the Classic Cup, a favorite place on the Plaza, and we made a couple of late-night jaunts to another fave, Winstead's Drive-In. We love Winstead's because it is open late on Sunday and Monday nights. Winstead's may not in fact serve, as Calvin Trillin claims, the world's best hamburger. But when the rest of K.C. has pretty much rolled up the sidewalks, Winstead's is there for you, offering cheap, delicious diner food and service with a smile. What else do you need at 11:30 p.m.?
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Wait, wait, wait. I get the bbq'ed out thing. I do. But seriously, no Oklahoma Joe's? Z-man and fries, helllooooooo....think smoked brisket, onion-ring and provolone cheese on a buttered kaiser roll.
Next time, don't sweat Gates or Bryant's but head straight to Oklahoma Joe's (has nothing to do with Oklahoma) or even LC's.
If you're going to skip the red-meat in a heart of america, might I suggest the Eden Alley Cafe in the basement of the Unity Temple on the Plaza.
Baba Bowl, delicious.
http://www.edenalley.com/partners.html
No more kc bbq reviews till you eat at Oklahoma Joe's please.
-Calvin Trillin's Son