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A peek at the 'new' Seventeen Seventeen

3:21 PM Thu, May 15, 2008 |  | 
Kim Pierce    E-mail  |  News tips

I just dropped in for lunch at the revamped Seventeen Seventeen at the Dallas Museum of Art, and it was hopping. Easy to see why. This is a great spot, whether you're meeting friends or business associates.

But if you're looking for a trendy new menu from consulting chef Stephan Pyles, just back off. The celebrity chef may have had a hand in creating these dishes, but I would not call them groundbreaking. Instead, they're pretty good new American with a deep bow to the South (seared sea scallops with an uptown red-eye gravy, Bourbon-glazed pork loin with a savory bread pudding) that comingles Mediterranean, Asian and American bistro dishes. Paula Lambert's cheeses showed up in two salads, including the Caprese.

Loved the sea scallops and tempura-fried veggie appetizers. Also, the pork loin. Only the hanger steak fell short: Its shoestring fries were hot - and limp. (You've got to get these right, guys.) I liked the wine list, too. With only about two dozen selections, it includes mostly familiar California names like Montelena and Duckhorn, but also some pleasant surprises, like a Tavel rose and Cloudy Bay Chardonnay (not Sauvignon Blanc) from New Zealand.




Comments

Actually, I had no hand in the current menu at Seventeen Seventeen. The menu "refresher" was composed by the current culinary staff there. We will be unveiling a new menu, where I will have input, in late June and will also announce the appointment of a new executive chef. Look for a formal press release from the DMA to follow soon.


Thanks, Stephan. That explains a lot - and makes me feel better about what I didn't see there. Looking forward to the menu after your input.


I agree with the hanger steak - poor choice on our part. But the veggie tempura was a total disappoinment. Greasy and no points for presentation. I expected more out of our experience - especially at that price! I look forward to revisiting after the Pyles touch.







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