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Get Breaking News on your cellPreviewing Bolla and the new Stoneleigh
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August 2008
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Three of us Eatsians got a preview peek at the new Stoneleigh Hotel and its Bolla Modern Italian restaurant today. The occasion was a media luncheon for the 2008 Texas Hill Country Wine & Food Festival, which will happen the second weekend of April. Bolla is supposed to open in about a month, we heard, though the hotel itself won't be welcoming guests until at least March. There's still a lot of work to be done, inside and out, but we can report that the Stoneleigh is coming along nicely. The sleek, elegant interiors and eye-catching lighting all complement the hotel's well-preserved historic architecture. Later, there will be a new luxury spa opening on the lower level, too. Bolla is situated in what used to be the old Lion's Den, which is now light-filled, contemporary and pretty much unrecognizable after its makeover. The luncheon crowd was treated to a four-course meal, with wines provided by Fall Creek Vineyards; Winn Meat Co. and Central Market also were sponsors. Architectural rendering of the Bolla dining room, courtesy of the Stoneleigh Hotel The starter was by Dallas Fish Market chef Randy Morgan: a salad with bits of hickory-smoked octopus, strips of mango and marinated cucumber, cubes of avocado and a zingy dressing. One did not have to be an octopus fan to enjoy this, either -- the hickory smoke gave it a whole new dimension. Next came pancetta-wrapped rabbit loin, accompanied by parsnip panna cotta and a drizzle of spicy pomegranate sauce, from chef Tre Wilcox of Top Chef fame. It reminded us vividly of just why Tre was such a success as chef de cuisine at Abacus. Main course was Bolla executive chef David Bull's beef short-rib cannelloni with ricotta and bolognese. This was true Italian comfort food. We also got a peek at a preliminary menu, which -- with dishes such as duck confit ravioli and pork belly diavolo -- made us think that Bolla's arrival will be well worth waiting for. Especially when we got dessert from Bolla pastry chef Tracy Elliott: lemon napoleon with almond crema, a light flaky pastry layered with silky cream filling, providing a sweet counterpoint for its tangy lemon tartness. |
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