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August 2008
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Some interesting culinary innovations are, as usual, cooking in chef Anthony C. Bombaci's kitchen at Nana, the 27th-floor restaurant atop the Hilton Anatole tower. Wednesday night, we got a taste of the new seasonal menu while seated at a table (Table 42, if you want to ask for it) that had a spectacular view of downtown Dallas' skyline. Visual bonus: a silvery full moon floating over the city. And for the lucky diners to take home? A candy box containing six chocolate truffles -- and a 3-ounce slab of chocolate adorned with the portrait of "Nana," the restaurant's namesake. She's the lovely, voluptuous and mostly nude lady in a famous 1881 oil painting by D. Marcel Suchorowsky. Since its purchase by Trammell and Margaret Crow in 1981, the painting has graced the wall above the bar at Nana. PHOTO: Portrait of Nana, reproduced on a 3-ounce slab of chocolate The meal started with an amuse-bouche twist on the classic Arnold Palmer: a cube of frozen tea floating in lemonade, topped with coconut foam. Then the first course, a dish of sweet-potato agnolotti with caramelized pecans, capers and parmigiano reggiano. Next up: a fabulous marinated lobster and shrimp appetizer with green apples, ginger, lobster caramel and wild-rice "popcorn." Then the first main, a "surf & turf" dish featuring a piece of Berkshire pork belly that was like the foie gras of pork bellies: a crisp top layer, a layer of sublimely flavorful fat, then a layer of tender pork. That was paired with a big sea scallop, aji panca aioli, a bit of avocado, cilantro and crispy plantain. Second main: a slice of slow-cooked, grilled venison loin with baby carrots and carrot puree, mission fig and cassis pear. After a fruity taste of persimmon and coconut with blood-orange bubbles, the real dessert arrived: manjari chocolate coulant with coffee toffee and Bailey's-flavored ice cream. Each course was paired with a wine selected by Vincent McGrath, Nana's new wine director. General manager Mark La Rocca played host with an assist by Dallas PR exec Jeff Yarbrough, and chef Bombaci was greeted with a round of applause at the evening's end. |
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