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I’m just back from a long weekend in Oxford, Miss., where I attended the tenth annual symposium of the Southern Foodways Alliance, one of my favorite organizations on the planet. To celebrate the symposium’s entry into the double digits, the expansive topic this year was The State of Southern Food. I wound up pinch-hitting on a short talk about fried chicken for a fellow food journalist who had a family emergency. Below the jump I’ll throw out some thoughts on the state of fried chicken, but let me ask right here: What’s the best fried chicken in the DFW area? I’ve been so focused on trying Texas-specific dishes that I haven’t consumed much gospel bird here. Now I’m starving for it. Is it Brother’s? Babe’s or Bubba’s? Any great fried chicken at a restaurant whose name doesn’t begin with a B? Speaking more broadly, my favorite fried chicken in the country – depicted in the picture above – is served on Tuesday nights at Watershed in Decatur, Ga. (a town that smacks right up to Atlanta). Executive chef Scott Peacock uses a recipe that melds the fried chicken traditions of his Alabama childhood with that of his Virginia-born mentor, the legendary Edna Lewis. I never tire of outlining this process: The chicken is brined for a day, soaked in buttermilk for another day, then coated lightly in a simply seasoned flour mixture and finally pan-fried in a combination of lard and butter that’s been flavored with country ham pieces. I can’t conjure enough joyfully shouted expletives to do this fried chicken justice. The outer layer is thin but impeccably crisp, the meat (both white and dark meat) moist, and the whole thing has an elusive, wonderfully smoky porcine taste from the lard and ham. The restaurant serves the chicken with butter-fueled mashed potatoes, garlicky green beans and two warm biscuits. Watershed’s chicken illuminates the main trend happening in restaurant-prepared fried chicken today: There’s a widening gap between places that deep fry and pan (skillet) fry. Most places (like Brother’s and Babe’s) that specialize in fried chicken tend to deep fry: It’s a more economically feasible way to cook mass quantities of browned bird. This isn’t universally true (there are few universal truths in the restaurant industry), but I’d say it’s closer to the norm. And often with great results: Many folks love the rippling crispness of thickly battered pieces of deep-fried chicken. The more-laborious tradition of pan-fried chicken seems to quickly be falling into the hands of finer dining chefs, like Scott Peacock at Watershed, who serve it as a once-a-week special. Places as far-flung as Jackie’s Restaurant outside Washington D.C., West Town Tavern in Chicago and Ad Hoc (French Laundry chef Thomas Keller’s family-style eatery) in Napa all offer fried chicken as a weekly special. (Chez Panisse in Berkeley has even tried their hand recently at pan-fried chicken, though they used boneless chicken, an aberration.) The dish is always served on a historically slower restaurant night (i.e., not Thursday, Friday or Saturday) to lure the masses -- which it typically does. Man, would I love to see a local chef tackle pan-fried chicken. I don’t know of any being served in the Metroplex (and after writing about this, I’m ready to fly to Atlanta for a fix). Can anyone offer some leads? |
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Comments
Posted by Joyce Saenz Harris @ 11:46 AM Mon, Oct 29, 2007
OMG, Bill. That photo alone is giving me hunger pangs...
Celebration's fried chicken is the favorite of a lot of folks in Dallas. I happen to like the chicken at Dixie House in Lakewood, as well as the three B's of Bubba's, Babe's and Brothers.
Posted by Jane @ 12:18 PM Mon, Oct 29, 2007
Williams will get my vote.
Posted by JB @ 3:16 PM Mon, Oct 29, 2007
Babe's gets my vote. However, nothing beats my mother's homemade fried chicken.
Posted by Annie @ 4:06 PM Mon, Oct 29, 2007
The hot fried chicken at Tom Thumb is about as close as I can find to what my Daddy use to make. Lots and lots of black pepper. Yummy good!
Posted by Helena Basquet @ 4:50 PM Mon, Oct 29, 2007
Tom Thumb? did we just fall into some Twilight Zone vortex? Puhleasse...
Posted by Shannon @ 5:05 PM Mon, Oct 29, 2007
Aw c'mon! Let's not be snobs about the grocery store fried chicken. When I used to shop at Albertson's it was all I could do not to make a beeline for their fried chicken counter. I'm sure they piped the smell throughout the store. Not too greasy, perfectly crunchy skin and you know they prepared it right there, just like the restaurants do. Whole Foods on the other hand? Bland and yuck.
I don't eat fried chicken out much though, but Babe's is awesome. And now that I know about Ain't No More Butter Cakes, I'll be sure to try all of our local fried chicken purveyors...
Posted by Cathy @ 5:29 PM Mon, Oct 29, 2007
I'm pretty fond of the spicy at Popeye's. Is it the best in town? No. But it's cheap and it's easy to find, and that counts for a lot when you just need some fried chicken.
Posted by Greg @ 5:36 PM Mon, Oct 29, 2007
Hall's Chicken Shack on Buckner in Dallas is by far the best bird in town.
Posted by Molly @ 5:38 PM Mon, Oct 29, 2007
Another B - Bread Winners does a very nice buttermilk pan fried chicken breast.
Posted by Bill Addison @ 5:44 PM Mon, Oct 29, 2007
Ooh, a pan-fried tip. Thanks, Molly! Too bad the restaurant doesn't pan-fry legs or thighs -- I'm a dark meat kinda guy ...
Posted by Eddie Moore @ 5:58 PM Mon, Oct 29, 2007
Hands down the best fried chicken in the world Gus's in Memphis Tn.
Posted by Shannon Sutlief @ 6:27 PM Mon, Oct 29, 2007
I'll second Joyce's nomination for Dixie House. Love love love the jalapeno cream gravy, too.
Posted by Bruce @ 6:49 PM Mon, Oct 29, 2007
When I first moved to dallas 21 yars ago, I walked to the Highland Park cafeteria--and for the first time in my life tasted what Southern Fried Chicken was really all about. It still lingers in my memory. I have a hard tme believing that some of these chains mentioned here can use the higest quality ingredients and give the TLC tht I got at HPC. I wonder how the chicken is at the newer place in Casa Linda?
Posted by Phillip @ 6:59 PM Mon, Oct 29, 2007
Along the lines of mentioning Albertson's and Tom Thumb, Kroger (the store where I work) makes some pretty good fried chicken. And recently, they started seasoning some with chipotle powder right out of the fryer. And yes, they make it fresh using Tyson chicken.
I love working Sunday nights when the lady in the deli will sometimes set an 8-piece aside for me to take home. I can put a couple of pieces in the oven for a few minutes to crisp up the crust. Mmmmmmmmm...
Posted by EI @ 7:22 PM Mon, Oct 29, 2007
Anyone heard of the former Aday's Fried Chicken that was in downtown Waxahachie?
Posted by Kevin @ 8:21 PM Mon, Oct 29, 2007
Man o man! If you want bone likin good chicken "Brothers" was my first stop after leaving the hospital. The left over is great for breakfast too!
Posted by Alfonso @ 8:30 PM Mon, Oct 29, 2007
Ok, so I'm back after a few days of eating great Italian, Chinese and Malaysian street food in NYC. And I come back to this? A discussion of great fried chicken that includes folks talking about Tom Thumb, Popeye’s and Kroger? Talk about low hanging fruit! Doesn't anyone in this town have an aunt who lived here all her life? Something? Anything? This is just plain embarrassing. Fried chicken isn’t something you get at a supermarket people- It is part of the indigenous culture here. It’s the stuff of the last meal eaten on earth. Do we need to get a bunch of elderly women together at Son’s of Hermann Hall and demonstrate to the underexposed and/or newly transplanted? This is our cuisine, like Tex-Mex, it isn’t something to talk about nonchalantly. Bill, I have a sister-in-law and a cousin or two we can go over to and get some relief ;)
Posted by Elizabeth @ 9:10 PM Mon, Oct 29, 2007
Are ya'll insane? Have ya'll all forgotten Brothers on Gaston? BEST chicken in Dallas, hands down.
Posted by themexcellentone @ 9:13 PM Mon, Oct 29, 2007
Jasper's in Plano serves up the most amazing pan fried chicken, but only on the weekends. You've got to get there during the lunch period to get it, and get there early because once it's gone, it's gone! Their Gramma Minnie's Fried Chicken is served alongside chunky garlic mashed potatoes and sauteed veggies and it's absolute heaven on a plate.
BILL REPLIES: AHA! THIS IS THE KIND OF LEAD I'VE BEEN LOOKING FOR. THANK YOU!
Posted by Dale Hansen @ 9:20 PM Mon, Oct 29, 2007
Me and the lovely Mrs Hansen just love Babe's. I like Hooter's for the wings too
Posted by Mark @ 9:38 PM Mon, Oct 29, 2007
Babe's total experience can't be beat. The bone-in chicken is the best I've had in DFW - and I like chicken!
For cheap and amazing taste, however, Golden Chick and Chicken Express CHICKEN TENDERS (not the bone in option) are the best. They rival the best chicken tenders anywhere - the chicken just comes in a box instead of a plate. In a blind taste test, I would suggest it would come up a winner compared to any place with either chain - with the slight edge to Golden (however, the sides are not that great).
But, Babe's is always worth the trip. It offers a "down home" taste for the entire meal and atmosphere unlike others.
But, my grandma's pan fried chicken cooked with lard and butter, etc (years since she's been alive) would bring down the house. She grew up on a farm in Kansas and knew how to make everything taste great. Simply a lost art. Hopefully, when I get to heaven, she'll have a plate waiting for me! She would always cut out and save me the wishbone - yum - and I could make a wish!
Posted by baconboy @ 9:46 PM Mon, Oct 29, 2007
Bubba's is my favorite and I haven't found much reason to try anything else.
The NY Times just wrote an article on two fried chicken joints in New Orleans, with video. Check it out (including video) at:
http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/2007/10/25/into-the-fryer/
BILL REPLIES: THANKS FOR POINTING THAT OUT, BACONBOY. KIM SEVERSON, WHO WROTE THAT DISPATCH, WAS AT THE SFA SYMPOSIUM. I READ FROM IT DURING MY FRIED CHICKEN DISCUSSION. A GENUINELY TOUCHING ACCOUNT -- KIM'S ONE OF THE BEST IN OUR BIZ.
Posted by John Castillo @ 10:08 PM Mon, Oct 29, 2007
After Church on a Sunday afternoon, most people go straight to Brookshire Brothers (yes, a grocer) here in Hearne,TX. Great Fried Chicken: big pieces, crispy, juicy, seasoned just right, and add a jalapeno ... mmmmmmdoggy!!!
Posted by CG @ 11:17 PM Mon, Oct 29, 2007
I love Williams Chicken.
Posted by christy @ 11:43 PM Mon, Oct 29, 2007
I love, love, love Golden Chick -- and who is the unfeeling person who closed the Williams Chicken in downtown Dallas? I'll need to research this Bubba's place soon...gettin' hungry.
Posted by David @ 2:12 AM Tue, Oct 30, 2007
Pan fried seems to have disappeared outside the home. Good Eats had an epidode on pan fried chicken that explained why it turns out better than deep fried. Last year Eatzi's served fried chicken on Sunday. While inconsistent--sometimes too salty, sometimes breasts only--it was pretty good and tasted and looked like pan fried. In the Bubba's/deep fried vein, the Korean places (35/Royal) are exceptionally good.
Posted by Mark @ 3:06 AM Tue, Oct 30, 2007
I just don't understand the fascination with Babes. The chicken is pretty good, but the rest.... is just not good. Soggy green beans and mashed potatoes that certainly seem like they come right out of a box.
Williams Fried Chicken is the best I've seen from a chain. Someone needs to open one of those in the Plano/Frisco area. It would be an instant success.
Posted by Ray @ 6:17 AM Tue, Oct 30, 2007
Some of the best Fried Chicken ever in Dallas came from Naler's and Youngbloods in the 50's. Oh how I morn the Thursday night special of all you could eat for 99 cents
Posted by Brad @ 6:44 AM Tue, Oct 30, 2007
My Sunday tradition is to hit up Brother's and grab three thighs with fries and extra seasoning. I'm proud to say that their staff knows me by name.
Posted by Dave @ 7:40 AM Tue, Oct 30, 2007
Coop's Place in New Orleans makes the best cajun fried chicken I've ever tasted. Popeye's was bland after that experience.
Posted by Alfonso @ 7:56 AM Tue, Oct 30, 2007
So it's all come down to Chicken Fried Steak, Tex-Mex and Fried Chicken, here in Big D? Ok, I give in, pass them thighs..
a nice account here of Willie May's Scotch House in New Orleans and their Fried Chicken.
http://offthebroiler.wordpress.com/2007/09/25/new-orleans-dining-willie-maes-scotch-house/
Posted by Steve C. @ 8:49 AM Tue, Oct 30, 2007
The original Brothers chicken is by far the best in the metroplex. I live about 2 minutes from Babe's Chicken (in the North Garland area). And don't get me wrong, Babe's is pretty darn good in my opinion but I'll drive about an hour total any day to get Brothers Chicken.
I think the original Brothers (Gaston) slightly edges out the newer one on Coit but the Coit location still beats out any other chicken this city has to offer. I'm kind of miffed that the 'Guide' gave it 2 stars yet gave it nothing but very high praise in the written review; maybe they count three stars for atmosphere?? Their chicken is 5 stars in my book any day!!
Posted by John Bealle @ 9:02 AM Tue, Oct 30, 2007
I hate to give you this because we don't want to see it too crowded but Kel's eatery on Forest @ Inwood has fried chicken as a special every Tuesday. With 3 side dishes, it is one of the best meals in Dallas and we and some friends regularly go there every week. The chicken is always very good: hot, moist, tasty, and just plain delicious. You know it is good when they ask you if you want white or dark meat! Enjoy !
BILL REPLIES: THANKS FOR THIS GOOD TIP, JOHN. I'M SUDDENLY SEEING A FRIED CHICKEN ROUNDUP IN MY VERY NEAR FUTURE ...
Posted by Chuck @ 9:04 AM Tue, Oct 30, 2007
Wow, even the great Dale Hansen weighed in on this subject! I will have to try some of these places, but I wish the place in the picture was around here. If you are ever traveling on I-70 in Kansas stop at Abilene at the Brookville Hotel and try their chicken dinner. It is all they serve, and they're always busy. People load up on buses to go there. 'Course there ain't much else to do in Kansas (my home state).
BILL REPLIES: SPEAKING OF KANSAS (AND ASTUTE FRIED CHICKEN DISCUSSIONS), MICHAEL BAUER AT THE SF CHRONICLE HAS POSTED SOME GREAT THOUGHTS ABOUT FRIED CHICKEN (IN KANSAS AND ELSEWHERE) ON HIS BLOG: http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/sfgate/category?blogid=26&cat=659
Posted by scorpio @ 9:08 AM Tue, Oct 30, 2007
The best fried chicken in the DFW metroplex is Donald Brown's off Camp Wisdom.
That's final!
Posted by jim @ 9:19 AM Tue, Oct 30, 2007
I think the best fried chicken in Dallas is served at Celebration Restaurant on Lovers. I think they only have it on certain days however. Sundays for sure.
Posted by Mandy @ 9:26 AM Tue, Oct 30, 2007
I love Brothers Fried Chicken and their yummy fried okra. Rudy's Chicken on S. Lancaster is also very, very good.
Posted by Kelly @ 11:09 AM Tue, Oct 30, 2007
Jasper's fried chicken on the weekend is incredible. Also, Nate's Seafood in Addison has really good fried chicken as well.
Does anyone know what the deal with Korean fried chicken is?
Posted by Bill Addison @ 11:17 AM Tue, Oct 30, 2007
Hey Kelly --
Korean fried chicken is a similar but distinct breed. I haven't had any in the Metroplex yet: Can anyone point us in the local direction of good Korean fried chicken? (Or, for that matter, Korean fire chicken, which is fried chicken doused in a sauce that can really smart?)
Here's a graf about Korean fried chicken from an old article I wrote during my time at Creative Loafing Atlanta:
"Popular though fried chicken may be in the South, Southerners don't have the copyright on this dish, says Damon Lee Fowler in his cookbook. Variations on chicken fried in fat exist in almost every culture on the planet. I scouted out some non-Southern examples on Buford Highway [Atlanta's main thoroughfare for ethnic eats] and found one with which I've fallen in love. Harue Cafe, a lovely, tranquil Korean spot, serves a whole chicken cut up into slightly larger-than-bite-size pieces piled on a platter. There's no seasoning in the crust, but a bowl of salt, pepper and sesame seeds is served alongside. You dip the chicken in the seasonings bowl and chow. There's also a sweet-and-sour sauce that I recommend you ask for on the side. It's familiar yet novel. Any open-minded Southerner will love it."
Posted by Deborah @ 2:30 PM Tue, Oct 30, 2007
For Korean chicken, we've tried Plus 1 Chicken. (2240 Royal Ln # 306) They have two versions of fried chicken, with the red sauce and without. Their version is too sweet for my tastes. I noticed on the plain version that they use much less breading than most fried chicken places which is a plus for me. I heard that a place nearby called Very Well Wine Chicken (2330 Royal Ln) was much better, but also heard a rumor that it's no longer in business.
Posted by Jim Rossman @ 5:02 PM Tue, Oct 30, 2007
For those who don't know, Bubba's (on Hillcrest near Snider Plaza) and Babe's (multiple locations) are owned by the same family.
Bubba's is my personal favorite, but it's fun to bring out-of-towners to Babe's for the full-on dining experience of their family style dinners.
Babe's is a lot closer to home and gets the lion's share of our fried chicken business.
Posted by JohnG @ 6:18 PM Tue, Oct 30, 2007
Bubbas on Hillcrest gets my vote for best traditional fried chicken.
Raising Cane's (Coit and Campbell, also one in Lewisville) has the best fingers. The Cane's sauce, the fresh never frozen chicken, fried to order, and the marinade make for an amazing finger experience.
Popeye's spicy is the best chain chicken - though its spicier and better at south Louisiana locations.
And Pluckers has the best wings.
Posted by Bob Stoller @ 6:57 PM Tue, Oct 30, 2007
If you remember Youngblood's, if you remember Leslie's Chicken Shack, if you remember Tinsley's, then you want to go to Babe's, Bubba's, and Brothers.
Posted by Brad @ 10:04 AM Wed, Oct 31, 2007
I’ve had Brothers, Babes, Williams, Popeyes, etc. You name it, I’ve had it. With that said, I can say, without hesitation, that there is not a single fried chicken joint in this city that can trump the goodness of Pollo Compero on W. Northwest Highway. I never thought that I would ever eat a fried thigh whose seasoning was better than Brothers, but Pollo Compero’s special seasoning will change your life.
Trust me on this. I know my fried chicken.
Posted by Doyle Hargraves @ 12:23 PM Wed, Oct 31, 2007
I like Chicken Champ!
Posted by Timothy ONeil @ 1:03 PM Wed, Oct 31, 2007
Brothers location in Richardson was one of my best food disappointments ever. Dry
overcooked with terrible service.
Posted by Kim Pierce @ 2:13 PM Wed, Oct 31, 2007
Cross All Good Cafe off your list, Bill. I dropped by for lunch today (and more of that nastilicious King Ranch chicken), but saw no fried chicken per se. Just chicken-fried chicken, which is basically white chicken-fried steak. Crisp, delicate crust and moist meat, but deep-fried, not pan-fried.
Posted by Mary O'Brien @ 3:06 PM Wed, Oct 31, 2007
I’m going to have to totally agree with the guy whose life was changed by Pollo Campero. I ate there Saturday evening, came back to work on Monday, and was offered a promotion! You think I’m kidding, but I’m not. …And don’t even claim that it was just a coincidence!
But seriously, the seasoning they bathe the chicken in is truly amazing, and the degree of fried crispiness is absolutely perfect. Those two factors alone can assure a quality piece of chicken.
From here on out, I will forever be faithful to Pollo Campero. I might even start a fan club.
Posted by michael @ 8:49 AM Thu, Nov 01, 2007
Pollo Campero! Numero uno in my book. Fresh, light and very tasty with a hint of heat. I love their sides too. Especially the fried plantains. Friendly counter staff a plus.
Posted by William @ 10:53 AM Thu, Nov 01, 2007
I KNEW there had to be some Pollo Campero fans in the house! I read through all these comment, each talking about Babes, Brothers, etc. and finally there's some talk about the best fried chicken in Dallas - Pollo Campero!
Welcome to town Pollo Campero! Stay a while, why dontcha!?
Posted by Garry @ 2:46 PM Thu, Nov 01, 2007
Tried Pollo Campero for lunch today after reading all the comments here.
The light crust tasted very salty which possibly took away from this virgin taste test. I've never understood why cooks (fast food or otherwise) salt an item when the consumer can easily adjust it to their own exact taste.
In any event, the chicken was okay, but I wouldn't give it any accolades of being the best by any means. The skin was crispy and lightly seasoned; other than the aforementioned salt, and overall a bit greasy.
I was pleasantly surprised at the refreshing taste of their simple pinto beans, and their little packaged flans. However, the mashed potatoes and gravy both tasted like they came from a box.
Posted by Jacob @ 10:57 AM Fri, Nov 02, 2007
Brothers does an OK chicken, but it isn't Henderson's. Those were big shoes to fill and I've yet to have anything close in Dallas.
Posted by Jim @ 3:41 PM Fri, Nov 02, 2007
Garry...
So Pollo Campero's chicken was crispy and lightly seasoned, with just a bit of grease?
Sounds like good chicken to me!
Thanks for the stellar review! I now know where I'll be eating tonight ; )
Posted by Steve @ 1:31 PM Wed, Dec 12, 2007
I live in Plano now, and just returned from a 2 year stint in England. One of the things I was most looking forward to about coming back home (besides proper Tex-Mex) was the anticipated drive down 75 to get my teeth into some Brothers Fried Chicken! When I lived in that area and worked downtown, I had their number stored in my mobile, and would hit it on the way home... often. One thing that sets them apart from most other very good chicken joints (outside of their tasty pollo), is they offer fried okra (and darn good okra at that). Add the accompanying slices of white bread, and the whole jalapeños, and now I'm slobbering all over my keyboard!
Posted by Tony @ 7:13 PM Wed, Dec 12, 2007
If it's pan-fried you want, Dixie House in Lakewood has some of the best anywhere, but my heart belongs to Brother's, it's the only fried chicken I've ever had a regular craving for.
Posted by ex-tex @ 5:57 PM Sun, Dec 23, 2007
mwahaahahahahah. always nice to be reminded why i loathe/left dallas.